• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

What did you do to your Avalanche today?

MS03 2500 said:
I think mine is under 3,000 miles a year and it has to be a running vehicle.
Click to expand...

It's been a while, but I think my stipulation was something like 750 miles or less per year.

I could be wrong, but the thing didn't get a hundred or so miles put on it for a decade or so, anyway.

The truck always ran and was running when the new owner drove it away.

It might not have smelled real good, but it ran nonetheless.

:ROFLMAO:
 
That's the exact reason why they required a PIC, they did not want to insure a POS. You had to tell them where the vehicle was and they did check if they saw a expired plate instance cancellation
 
Mine sat out in the back yard behind a wooden privacy fence and the four tires sat on their own square concrete patio pavers to keep the tires off of the ground.

It would go for months and sometimes years without even being started or seeing the road.

I had one battery just waste away over that entire time and I think the oil got changed every 5 or 6 years, whether it needed it or not.

I did pour a can of SeaFoam into the crankcase, but I am sure it evaporated over the many years it was in there.

The squirrels enjoyed storing their winter nuts under the hood and inside the air cleaner box.

Still, that truck fired right up and performed as required, whenever the rare need arose.

It never left me down.

Say what you will about Fords, but that damned thing just kept right on going.

It might also be interesting to note that our state does not have vehicle inspections that need to be passed and the truck had an "Antique" license plate that meant it was done getting new tags and being registered for life.

All it cost me was the paltry liability premium to keep it around.

I always justified keeping it around because I couldn't rent a spare car for what I had invested.

:) (y)
 
Last edited:
bacs22 said:
Got the A arms at a decent price from Amazon, they were $376.44 with tax. Much better than the SPC website price. End links are from >>>RARE PARTS<<<
Click to expand...
The sway bar link didn't open at first, I wasn't sure if they were hexagon or if that was a sleeve.
 
Last edited:
Today I pulled my rear mat out, it was little damp under neath so my panels must not be sealing good. I did notice the water drain channels are not sorted properly. Some of the clips are jacked up, I seated in the best I could so now it doesn't drain into the bed. I only had this rig for a short time, someone had pulled all the panels out and put them back in little hap haphazardly. Are those drain channels available or the clips, or all that stuff just now sourced from donor trucks...Glad I got this the best it could be for now before the rain came and I moved to part of the drive that has a pitch so its angled little bit to drain toward the rear for now. No rust in bed though.

Is the mat suppose to lay in there or is it suppose to tuck under the edges of the panels?
 
Mat is on top.
Junk yard or other USED parts for most avy parts.
 
Been heartily tired of fighting with the hanging block heater cable this winter & bent pins when it bounced against the road.

So today I removed the front licence plate, cut a hole dead center & fitted a 110V inlet (Two outlets) along with a battery maintainer so that both it & the Block Heater can run at the same time overnight.

This gives the battery a boost & has the engine ready to turn over when its -20 to -35C outside & not having to nip out to The Lady late at night to remove the charger so I can close the hood which allows me to use remote start with a stronger battery in the morning.

Despite doing a quick "Yank" test & pulled the cord out easily enough, I'm still a tiny bit concerned that the screws needed a bit more bite into something & possibly reinforcement at the back at a later date & possibly switching to bolts.

Took about a hour to do.
 

Attachments

  • Working.jpg
    Working.jpg
    101.7 KB · Views: 17
  • 20240309_150005.jpg
    20240309_150005.jpg
    106.4 KB · Views: 17
  • 20240309_150224.jpg
    20240309_150224.jpg
    101.2 KB · Views: 15
  • 20240309_141529.jpg
    20240309_141529.jpg
    77.1 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
Also replaced the driver door weatherstrip. I bought the truck used, not sure why the excessive wear on the weatherstrip adjacent to the latch.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1910.jpeg
    IMG_1910.jpeg
    158.2 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_1909.jpeg
    IMG_1909.jpeg
    206.1 KB · Views: 6
donholco said:
Also replaced the driver door weatherstrip. I bought the truck used, not sure why the excessive wear on the weatherstrip adjacent to the latch.
Click to expand...

I recently replaced both front door weather strips on my EXT.

That truck had sat mostly unused since early 2020 and I felt the door seals were getting a little flat from the doors not being opened very much during that time.

Not a very difficult job at all and I am considering replacing all of the remaining door weather strip seals on both of my trucks.

I'm thinking 20 or so years is probably a good run.

Luckily, none of my weather strips seals are torn up like in your pictures.

Anyone else looking at worn out seals should think about this repair.

Pretty easy and not too terribly expensive.
 
donholco said:
Also replaced the driver door weatherstrip. I bought the truck used, not sure why the excessive wear on the weatherstrip adjacent to the latch.
Click to expand...
A terribly obese person?

FWIW - I work with a kid (age 45) that was over 600lbs last year, he got some kind of surgery to reduce his stomach size and recently he told me he was now just under 300lbs. He weighs less than me and he's the same height. He said they expect to surgically remove about 16lbs of excess skin when he reaches his target of around 225. Gotta be proud of someone that can do that and not die during the process. I've known two that had it done and both died. Both women. I didn't know them well, just knew them slightly.
 
Ah crap…bought a new cam…🤣

briantooleyracing.com

BTR GEN III & IV TRUCK NORRIS CAM

BTR GEN III & IV TRUCK NORRIS CAM #html-body [data-pb-style=D77B69R],#html-body [data-pb-style=SET7KW2]{justify-content:flex-start;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background
briantooleyracing.com briantooleyracing.com
 
Last edited:
I got nowhere with the heated steering wheel upgrade but while the wheel was off I was better placed for a repair, using superglue & graphite powder, with a pharmaceutical weight to keep things in place for about two hours then ground down.

Not pretty but it's a definite improvement IMO.

Will see how long it lasts..........
 

Attachments

  • Crack.jpg
    Crack.jpg
    68.1 KB · Views: 10
  • GNG.jpg
    GNG.jpg
    75.4 KB · Views: 10
  • Grounded.jpg
    Grounded.jpg
    114.6 KB · Views: 10
Rassilon said:
So today I removed the front licence plate, cut a hole dead center & fitted a 110V inlet (Two outlets) along with a battery maintainer so that both it & the Block Heater can run at the same time overnight.



Took about a hour to do.
Click to expand...
I like the look, execution and practicality...
In my youth (1960's), some cars (like my old Pontiac) the rear license plate was on a spring loaded hinge, you flopped it down to add gas.. If your 'locality" requires a front plate, you might look into something like that to:
1) have a plate to prevent a ticket
2) cover the electrical plug when you are driving to keep the snow and mud out.
 
joendoodle said:
I like the look, execution and practicality...
In my youth (1960's), some cars (like my old Pontiac) the rear license plate was on a spring loaded hinge, you flopped it down to add gas.. If your 'locality" requires a front plate, you might look into something like that to:
1) have a plate to prevent a ticket
2) cover the electrical plug when you are driving to keep the snow and mud out.
Click to expand...

No front plates in Alberta.

I have the old front Bowtie plate, just need to print off a modified version of the hinge for the plate.

It comes with a protective rubber inlet cover if you look at the first picture.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top