ckusnierek
Full Member
I just finished replacing my EBCM and learned a few things along the way that might help a few people...
A little history...
ABS/Brake Warning lights and DIC message "Service Brake System" Intermittent for 3 months..
Eventually lights and warning as soon as the car was in drive and moving.
Dealer scan showed Code: C0265
G110 Re Ground not effective.
Last week I removed my Module and sent it out for repair. Got it back installed and all is good now
Total repair was $150 Shipped back top me insured and $7.50 for me to ship it to them. I got 2 day turn around and was very pleased with the whole experience.
Anyway back to removal and instillation!
Removing the module is pretty straight forward unless you have stripped screws. Then your in trouble.
Removal:
Disconnect Neg. Battery Terminal
Remove the 60a ABS fuse. (compartment right behind the battery)
Engage parking brake
Jack up the Av (use jack stands for safety)
Shimmy under the drivers side. The module is located on the frame rail right under the drivers seat. (see pic)
!!!DO NOT REMOVE ANY BRAKE FITTINGS!!!
There are 2 connectors visible at this point. The pump connector and main connector (see pics)
There is a red retaining clip on the main connector the must be removed before you can pull the connector off.
Be careful not to lose this clip.
Once the Pump and Main connectors are off now it's time to remove the (4)T20 Torx bolts that hold the module to the valve assembly.
I just happened to have a 5"x5" mirror with magnets on the back that was perfect for seeing the top of the module.
If you go to Wal-Mart in the school supplies section they sell a locker mirror that is just the same.
Trust me you will be glad you have it. Stick it to the body right above the module.
Now you have a perfect clear view of the top of the module and you still have both hands free.
Depending on where you do this and time of day you may need a drop light under the Av with you.
Depending on the age and use of your truck the bolts may be completely clean and easy to remove or they could be full of mud and grime and rusty.
The the bolt head looks like it is full of junk spray a lil WD-40 on the tops of the bolt heads and let it soak for 15 minuets.
Then take a 1/16 drill bit just in your fingers and work it in to the top of the bolt head turning it clock wise working all the just loose.
Use compressed air to blow off any remaining debris.
I uses a 2" "L" style T20 Torx Wrench. I had the socket and driver but the L wrench was much easier.
Using the Mirror to see the bolt heads clearly. Simply insert the T20 wrench and proceed to remove the bolts.
IMPORTANT: Be very careful if your strip the T20 heads you will have to completely remove your valve assembly rendering your Av un drivable and requiring a bleed of the entire brake system once the assembly if re installed. YOU DO NOT WANT TO HAVE TO DO THIS!!!
Once the 4 bolts are off gently lift straight up on the module you may have to rock it a little side to side to break the seal. Lift up about 1 inch and work the module towards you.
There is one last connector to remove from the underside of the module.
Congrats! Your EBCM is now out and ready to be sent our for repair by the facility of your choosing. Of if you have a new one on had your ready to install it.
If you are sending your module out for repair there are a few precaution to take before driving your vehicle.
Using a baggie, place it over your connectors and use electrical tape to keep them clean and dry.
Also cover the top of your valve assembly (where the module was before you removed it)
I used Duct Tape for this and used the philosophy more is better
Cover the top of the assembly with strips of tape until the entire top is protected from dirt and water.
It should take about a week to get your module back. I suggest doing thin on Sunday, Shipping on Monday and maybe you'll have it back by Friday depending on where you live.
Installing your new Module:
Before you install your new or repaired module there are a few things you will want to have ready:
New Stainless Bolts (M4x.7 x 25mm) I got deep socket heads from Ace Hardware for $.45 each (DO NOT PAY $5.00 From the place rebuilding it!)
Brake Cleaner (per re-manufactures instruction)
Hair dryer (per re-manufactures instruction)
2.5mm 2" Allen Wrench (for the new bolts)
Clean shop towels
Trusty magnetic mirror
Respirator (optional) (I'll explain later)
Once again Jack it up and shimmy underneath.
Mount your magnetic mirror.
Remove all the tape and bags.
Using the brake cleaner clean the surface of the valve assembly.
WARNING: Make sure the are you are working in a area that is VERY well ventilated (fan suggested) when you use the brake cleaner the vapors can overwhelm you very fast. I was outside on a breezy day and still just about passes out from the fumes! Also make sure your vehicle is cooled down to avoid a flash over from the vapors / hot exhaust.
After cleaning the valve assembly. Use the hair dryer on the top of the assemble to evaporate any cleaner and moisture. It will also blow off any dust/debris from the valves.
Connect the third connector on the underside of the module. (the last one you removed while taking out the unit)
Still use the hair dryer some more on both the module and valve assembly to ensure there is no moisture trapped in side that may cause premature failure.
Carefully place the module back on top of the assembly in the reverse manner you removed it.
Insert the 4 new bolts. (wait till you have the module in place to ensure you do not drop any in a inaccessible place.)
Tighten the 4 bolts snug enough to ensure a water/moisture tight seal. If you get stainless bolts be careful not to strip them stainless is actually a very soft metal and you can strip the threads or wash out the hex easily.
Connect the to renaming connectors and red clip on the main connector.
Connect your Neg. batter terminal and re install the ABS fuse!
That's it! Take it for a test drive. HOARY! No more warning lights and annoying dinging alarms.
I went into this blind and kinda wished I had detailed instruction that's why I wrote this.
I hope that maybe it will help someone some day.
A little history...
ABS/Brake Warning lights and DIC message "Service Brake System" Intermittent for 3 months..
Eventually lights and warning as soon as the car was in drive and moving.
Dealer scan showed Code: C0265
G110 Re Ground not effective.
Last week I removed my Module and sent it out for repair. Got it back installed and all is good now
Total repair was $150 Shipped back top me insured and $7.50 for me to ship it to them. I got 2 day turn around and was very pleased with the whole experience.
Anyway back to removal and instillation!
Removing the module is pretty straight forward unless you have stripped screws. Then your in trouble.
Removal:
Disconnect Neg. Battery Terminal
Remove the 60a ABS fuse. (compartment right behind the battery)
Engage parking brake
Jack up the Av (use jack stands for safety)
Shimmy under the drivers side. The module is located on the frame rail right under the drivers seat. (see pic)
!!!DO NOT REMOVE ANY BRAKE FITTINGS!!!
There are 2 connectors visible at this point. The pump connector and main connector (see pics)
There is a red retaining clip on the main connector the must be removed before you can pull the connector off.
Be careful not to lose this clip.
Once the Pump and Main connectors are off now it's time to remove the (4)T20 Torx bolts that hold the module to the valve assembly.
I just happened to have a 5"x5" mirror with magnets on the back that was perfect for seeing the top of the module.
If you go to Wal-Mart in the school supplies section they sell a locker mirror that is just the same.
Trust me you will be glad you have it. Stick it to the body right above the module.
Now you have a perfect clear view of the top of the module and you still have both hands free.
Depending on where you do this and time of day you may need a drop light under the Av with you.
Depending on the age and use of your truck the bolts may be completely clean and easy to remove or they could be full of mud and grime and rusty.
The the bolt head looks like it is full of junk spray a lil WD-40 on the tops of the bolt heads and let it soak for 15 minuets.
Then take a 1/16 drill bit just in your fingers and work it in to the top of the bolt head turning it clock wise working all the just loose.
Use compressed air to blow off any remaining debris.
I uses a 2" "L" style T20 Torx Wrench. I had the socket and driver but the L wrench was much easier.
Using the Mirror to see the bolt heads clearly. Simply insert the T20 wrench and proceed to remove the bolts.
IMPORTANT: Be very careful if your strip the T20 heads you will have to completely remove your valve assembly rendering your Av un drivable and requiring a bleed of the entire brake system once the assembly if re installed. YOU DO NOT WANT TO HAVE TO DO THIS!!!
Once the 4 bolts are off gently lift straight up on the module you may have to rock it a little side to side to break the seal. Lift up about 1 inch and work the module towards you.
There is one last connector to remove from the underside of the module.
Congrats! Your EBCM is now out and ready to be sent our for repair by the facility of your choosing. Of if you have a new one on had your ready to install it.
If you are sending your module out for repair there are a few precaution to take before driving your vehicle.
Using a baggie, place it over your connectors and use electrical tape to keep them clean and dry.
Also cover the top of your valve assembly (where the module was before you removed it)
I used Duct Tape for this and used the philosophy more is better
Cover the top of the assembly with strips of tape until the entire top is protected from dirt and water.
It should take about a week to get your module back. I suggest doing thin on Sunday, Shipping on Monday and maybe you'll have it back by Friday depending on where you live.
Installing your new Module:
Before you install your new or repaired module there are a few things you will want to have ready:
New Stainless Bolts (M4x.7 x 25mm) I got deep socket heads from Ace Hardware for $.45 each (DO NOT PAY $5.00 From the place rebuilding it!)
Brake Cleaner (per re-manufactures instruction)
Hair dryer (per re-manufactures instruction)
2.5mm 2" Allen Wrench (for the new bolts)
Clean shop towels
Trusty magnetic mirror
Respirator (optional) (I'll explain later)
Once again Jack it up and shimmy underneath.
Mount your magnetic mirror.
Remove all the tape and bags.
Using the brake cleaner clean the surface of the valve assembly.
WARNING: Make sure the are you are working in a area that is VERY well ventilated (fan suggested) when you use the brake cleaner the vapors can overwhelm you very fast. I was outside on a breezy day and still just about passes out from the fumes! Also make sure your vehicle is cooled down to avoid a flash over from the vapors / hot exhaust.
After cleaning the valve assembly. Use the hair dryer on the top of the assemble to evaporate any cleaner and moisture. It will also blow off any dust/debris from the valves.
Connect the third connector on the underside of the module. (the last one you removed while taking out the unit)
Still use the hair dryer some more on both the module and valve assembly to ensure there is no moisture trapped in side that may cause premature failure.
Carefully place the module back on top of the assembly in the reverse manner you removed it.
Insert the 4 new bolts. (wait till you have the module in place to ensure you do not drop any in a inaccessible place.)
Tighten the 4 bolts snug enough to ensure a water/moisture tight seal. If you get stainless bolts be careful not to strip them stainless is actually a very soft metal and you can strip the threads or wash out the hex easily.
Connect the to renaming connectors and red clip on the main connector.
Connect your Neg. batter terminal and re install the ABS fuse!
That's it! Take it for a test drive. HOARY! No more warning lights and annoying dinging alarms.
I went into this blind and kinda wished I had detailed instruction that's why I wrote this.
I hope that maybe it will help someone some day.