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Big Bend National Park - Texas

Established in 1944 Big Bend National Park in southwestern Texas protects 801,163 acres of boulder-strewn desert and a mountainous oasis rich with wildlife. Despite being a Texas sized park (bigger than the state of Rhode Island) Big Bend National Park receives only 350,000 visitors annually, most during the college spring break season in mid-March. Its limited visitation is due to its remote setting and a misunderstanding of just how much the park has to offer.

Nestled on the border of Mexico along the Rio Grande River and residing mostly in the unforgiving Chihuahua Desert, Big Bend offers many of the standard activities found in a desert based park including hiking, jeep touring, and rock climbing. What you may be surprised to find out is that Big Bend also offers 118 miles of canoeing, kayaking and rafting through whitewater rapids and deep canyons, hundreds of miles of backcountry trails and excellent wildlife viewing opportunities.

When compared to other large national parks Big Bend's, 112 miles of paved roads, 150 miles of dirt roads and 200 miles of hiking trails requires careful trip planning for a visit. From the closest airport in Midland, Texas it is a Texas sized four hour drive to the northern most edge of Big Bend, so park visitors should plan on staying at least two days.

If you want to visit the park by car you are in luck with five possible scenic routes. Three of the best drives include the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, the most popular route in the park. Thirteen miles west of park headquarters the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive winds for 30 miles south through the western foothills of the Chisos Mountains. The road passes huge gravel deposits and deep canyons before ending at Santa Elena Canyon and the Rio Grande River below. The view at Santa Elena by itself makes this worth the trip.

Along the way you can access a number of easy hiking trails that lead to the Old Sam Nail Ranch, the Homer Wilson (also know as the Blue Creek) Ranch, Mule Ear Springs and the Chimneys. The views from Sotol Vista and Tuff Canyon overlook are sure to please. Sunlight reaches the bottom of Santa Elena Canyon for only a few hours in the morning, so be sure to start this drive with the sunrise and before things become brutally hot.

On the return trip from Santa Elena Canyon Overlook be sure to stop at the Castolon Historic District. The Castolon region of the park documents modern habitation of Big Bend and is the most intact of historical areas in the park. At the turn of the twentieth century the banks of the Rio Grande were alive with fertile fields growing corn, beans, squash, and melons. In 1901 Cipriano Hernandez opened the first general store in the area operated out of his adobe house. The La Harmonia Company Store was purchased by the Park Service in 1961 and still operates today.

Three miles west of park headquarters is the start of Basin Drive that climbs into the green oasis in the heart of Big Bend. The road is very steep and it is not recommended for vehicles pulling trailers or recreational vehicles. The towering agave plants rising up almost 15 feet with their bright yellow flowers give way to a woodland setting in the middle of the Chihuahua Desert. After reaching mile high Panther Pass the road continues down into the basin through a series of very tight switchbacks.

Chisos Basin is an island of green surrounded by rugged sun scorched mountains. A visitor center, 72 room lodge, group camping area, general store, post office, restaurant and coffee shop are available in the heart of the park. A number of hiking trails snake their way into the Chisos Mountains to the south, several rising up well over 7,000 feet. Evening ranger programs are available year round.

The Persimmon Gap Drive starts at park headquarters and heads north for 26 miles offering two interesting side trips. With the rocky Chihuahua Desert surrounding you visitors can take a short spur road to the Fossil Bone Exhibit. The road takes visitors to the remains of a 50 million year old Coryhodon buried in a sandstone deposit. At the end of the 26-mile road visitors can head east along the Motor Nature Trail to Dagger Flat. Signs along the rough and dusty seven mile long Motor Nature Trail point out key species of the desert including the unique giant-dagger yucca, only found in Big Bend National Park.

In the southeastern corner of the park visitors can explore Boquillas Canyon. Considered one of the most spectacular canyons in the park, the limestone canyon is also the longest slicing its way through the Sierra del Carmen Mountains to the east of Big Bend.

Of course if you want to go off the paved roads Big Bend National Park offers many unique opportunities. Over 150 miles of dirt roads offer 4-wheel drive owners tremendous freedom to explore the park. River Road West heads east from Tuff Canyon and loosely parallels the Rio Grande River. As it twists and turns eastward to Rio Grande Village almost on the other side of the park, it passes no less than 15 backcountry campsites allowing mechanized travelers the opportunity for an extended stay.

For an even greater challenge you can head north up the extremely rugged Glenn Spring Road to Dugout Wells. Be sure to check with area rangers on the road conditions because a 4.5-mile segment north of Glenn Spring is not maintained.

In the heart of the park the Basin Region offers several interesting short hikes. The shortest of these is the Window View Trail. This 3/10 of a mile handicapped accessible paved trail located at the Chisos Basin Trailhead offers excellent views of the sun setting over the Chisos Mountains to the west. If you are looking for a longer hike you can take the 5.2-mile Window Trail. Dropping 800 feet the trail heads west and passes the Basin Campground. Located at Panther Pass, the 4.8-mile Lost Mine Trail climbs 1,100 feet along ridges toward the summit of 7,350 feet Lost Mine Peak and offers some of the best views in the park without going into the deep backcountry.

Along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive several interesting hikes can also be found. The 4.8-mile Chimneys Trail passes through the brutal heat of the desert to chimney rock formations. The Mule Ears Trail traverses 3.8 miles of flat desert through massive boulder fields and through a number of incredible geological features. The 3/4 of a mile Tuff Canyon Trail descends into the scenic canyon.

Many backcountry trails are based on old roads that use to crisscross the park and lead to historic areas. The park is extremely unforgiving with its extreme desert environment and some trails are completely unmarked. Backpackers should use topographical maps, be skilled in using a compass, desert survival and cross country techniques. Indication of available water in the backcountry should be considered only a recommendation and not a fact.

Camping is complex at Big Bend National Park. None of the four campsites in the park accept advanced reservations. If you get to the park and your planned campsite is full, you might have to drive 25 to 100 miles to find accommodations outside of the park! The best strategy is to arrive as early as possible.

Of course Big Bend National Park isn't just about land based activity. The Rio Grande River borders 118 miles of the park. An additional 127 miles of the Rio Grande east of the Big Bend makes up the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River and is administrated by Big Bend National Park. Float trips range from nine to over 130 miles.

The most popular float trip is the 21-mile paddle down Colorado Canyon. The Colorado Canyon put in is located in Big Bend Ranch State Park, just west of Big Bend National Park. The river snakes it way through Class II and Class III rapids before ending at Lajitas at the western tip of Big Bend National Park.

Despite being in the middle of a brutal desert the park is alive with wildlife. A number of lizards, snakes and insects call the park home, as does cougars and black bears. There has been tremendous debate on whether to reintroduce the gravely endangered Mexican Gray Wolf to the park, an idea that currently isn't supported by the state of Texas. Forty-five different cacti species call the park home and surviving in the searing heat, their barbs defending the soft plant from thirsty animals.

If you are looking for a spectacular desert getaway but don't want to deal with the crowds at places like Grand Canyon National Park, then Big Bend National Park just might be the answer. When the weather turns colder in the fall and winter, Big Bend comes alive as an incredible, Texas sized, outdoor destination.

Just The Facts

Name: Big Bend National Park
Fees & Permits: $10 per vehicle, or $5 per motorcycle, bicycle, or person. Backcountry permits are free.
Why Visit: Great wintertime destination. Cooler, green mountains sit in the heart of the Chihuahua desert. Excellent whitewater paddling through deep canyons, unique wildlife.
When To Visit: November to May 
More Information: Big Bend National Park, PO BOX 129, Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834, (915) 477-2251.

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