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Valley of Fire State Park - Nevada

Located about one hour east of Las Vegas the Valley of Fire State Park is Nevada's oldest state park. Founded in 1935, the park protects 34,880 acres of red sandstone formations along the northern most tip of Lake Mead National Recreation Area which stretches into nearby Arizona. 

The park gets its name not from the red rocks that vary in shade from deep red to terra cotta, but from the colors that appear just after sunrise and just before sunset. During these times the shadows hang long and the entire valley, located in the arid lowland Nevada desert, appears to glow a deep red. A land far removed from the bright lights and all you can eat buffets of Las Vegas the park offers a wide variety of activities for visitors year round. 

The Valley of Fire is an excellent park for auto touring with an outstanding network of roads allowing easy access to many features. The park is best accessed from the west entrance off of Exit 75 on Interstate 15. The scenic road twists and turns for 32 milesthrough the park. After passing the west entrance it is easy to image John Wayne riding across the red desert rocks with an azure cloudless sky above. 

The surrounding rock formations are incredible and reminiscent of Arches National Park far to the east in Utah. Strange formations carved by wind, water and heat abound, as well as many natural arches. One of the first features you come across is the Beehives. The Beehives are sandstone rocks that have been carved with a swirling pattern over time and resemble their namesake. Just a little bit past the Beehives you can take a short loop trail to see some petrified wood, deposited 225 million years ago in the valley. The area is covered with fragments, however there are some intact logs that you can see while visiting. Remember that the gathering of petrified wood is a criminal offense. 

Nearby is another spur road that will end at the trailhead that leads to Atlatl Rock. A long set of iron stairs climbs up a rock wall to an incredible panel of petroglyphs. Carved into the desert varnish between 300 B.C. and 1150 A.D., the petroglyphs of hunters, mountain sheep, spirals, birds, men and other objects tell a multitude of ancient stories now lost forever in time. Ancient artists scratched the veneer off to expose the red stone underneath, leaving their mark for future generations to marvel at. Desert varnish is formed when minerals leech out of the rock from the extreme heat, leaving a thin black veneer on the surface. The petroglyphs are very fragile, touching them with your hands or doing rubbings will ruin them, so be sure to leave them alone. 

Toward the center of the park you will find the visitor center. Inside its mercifully air conditioned walls there are a number of displays and exhibits that document plant and animal life, as well as the ancient cultures that use to live in the area. From the visitor center you can take a short spur road to the Petroglyph Canyon Trailhead. The short half-mile trail passes through the bottom of a canyon down a sand covered wash. As you walk down the trail be sure to look at the rock walls of the canyon for more petroglyphs. The ravages of time haven't been as kind on this trail, and the images are much harder to find. Along the trail be sure to stop and enjoy the pure silence that surrounds you, broken only by your labored breath in the desert heat and the soft crunch of the trail below you. 

The trail leads to Mouse's Tank. In the 1890's a renegade Paiute Indian hid in this area after being accused of killing two prospectors. Mouse hid here for months until local authorities were convinced he was dead. Later it was discovered how Mouse had survived and more than likely escaped. A natural depression is tucked away deep in the rock that collects rainwater. Due to the lack of direct sunlight and the size, the water supply can last for months, even during the long hot dry summer. Mouse used this natural tank to stay well hydrated during his stay and it is still present today. After hiking back to your car you can continue down the spur road to Rainbow Vista. From here you can look out across the desert colored with a vibrant array of colors. 

If you're feeling adventuresome, you can take the gravel road at Rainbow Vista to the Fire Canyon Overlook. Dropping over 600 feet below, the dark red gorge seems out of place next to nearby Silica Dome. The light tan silica of the massive dome is in sharp contrast to the surrounding landscape and the line between the two is as exact as a ruler. If you continue down the road another 2-1/2 miles you will come to the White Domes, two smaller silica domes that are melting into the red sandstone. They have a very different appearance to their larger brother to the south, with the tan giving way to lavender, than pink, and final the red of the surrounding stone. If you are feeling up to taking a desert hiking challenge, consider trekking the closed portion of the road out to Duck Rock. 

If you continue eastward on State Highway 169 and out of the park you will pass the Seven Sisters, monoliths rising up off of the desert floor. Before exiting the park you will come to appropriately named Elephant Rock. The rock formation resembles a long trunk hanging down on the ground with short tusks sticking out from his gnarled body. 

The Valley of Fire State Park is a backcountry paradise. Because the area is mostly covered with durable red rock, cross country exploration is possible almost anywhere in the park. Of course you will need a healthy respect for the desert and plenty of water if you plan to set off across the rocks. The heat isn't the only danger; six different species of poisonous rattlesnakes call the park home as well as the dangerous Gila monster. The rare desert tortoise also calls the Valley of Fire home and should be avoided if you see one. 

A single campground services the park. There are a total of 51 improved sites, and three walk in sites nestled in the rocks. The campgrounds are exposed and offer little privacy but are very well maintained. No hookups are offered, but there is a dump station and all campsites have tables, fire rings and grills. Hot showers are provided for free. 

Despite the harsh terrain, Valley of Fire State Park is a wonderful place to visit. Through a complex network of roads and trails, many of the key features of the park can be easily seen. Whether you are looking for an escape from the civilization of Las Vegas, or want to take the scenic route on your way to Zion National Park or the Grand Canyon, the echoes of the past can still be seen in the silent canyons of the Nevada desert.

Just The Facts

Name: Valley of Fire State Park
Fees & Permits: $5 access fee per vehicle.
Why Visit: Arid, desert paradise. Unusual rock formations, canyons, gorges and petrified wood makes a visit to the park equal to seeing three different national parks in one tiny package.
When To Visit: Year round, best from October to May 
More Information: Valley of Fire State Park, PO BOX 515, Overton, Nevada 89040, (702) 397-2088

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