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Author Topic: AC blows hot one side  (Read 106976 times)
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arizona-dave
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« Reply #225 on: 09/21/11 04:47 AM »

Your correct, this issue occurs when the battery is disconnected. Its a stupid stupid problem. But there are several "reset" methods that seem to work. Its happened to me 3 times. But using the ignition on, without engine on, and pressing the Auto buttons, then cycling between on and off ignition while pressing the Auto and then Manually setting the Drivers side always seems to work.

Most people who replaced the actuators, ended up posting again on this threat a while later when their battery was disconnected for any number of reasons. I think this is more of a computer issue allowing actuator to travel too far, than it is an actuator problem.

GM went bankrupt a few years ago...thats why they dont fix the issue for real, I think its been corrected on new models.

I had tried the fuse pull/let it recal about a dozen times.  Last night, I disconnected the battery, cussed for about 10 minutes, hooked the batt back up and it still did it.  I pulled the fuse and when I felt it blowing cold I cycled the ignition and now it's back to normal.

This seems to happen to me every time power is removed for maintenance.  barf

Seemed to still be OK on my drive this morning!!   Thumbs up!
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« Reply #226 on: 09/21/11 05:16 AM »

It's not really a bad design, the defrost position is the default position and when power is restored to the vehicle it expects it to be there. The easiest way to prevent it is to turn it off before dropping battery power if you can.
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arizona-dave
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« Reply #227 on: 09/21/11 05:35 AM »

First, the problem isnt the AC system being stuck in Defrost...the problem is the AC Systems getting stuck in a mode where the Drivers Side blows Hot air, and the temperature controls dont respond...but the "Mode" control does respond...what that has to do with the AC computer resetting to Defrost mode Huh

Second, Your description of "not a bad design", is the very description of a Bad Design, or a design flaw. It Doesnt respond in a rational, predictable way, and the system itself doesnt self-correct...Thus a Design Flaw. How can it be any other way?

Third, Dealers DONT suggest just turning the AC system off prior to battery disconnect to *prevent* this problem, nor do they provide special instructions on how to prevent this problem, Nor do they tell customers that the problem is a simple reset...nearly all of the dealers suggest that the actuator must be replaced. In other words, if this was such a trivial non-problem, why dont the dealers know about it and provide the quick, free, 2 minute fix? They are either ill-informed about it, or they know it is a design flaw, and take advantage of the design flaw by making money installing actuators and then do a system reset, making money in the process, knowing it will happen again.

It would kinda be like having to unscrew your light bulb before turning it off each time, or risk the light bulb not coming on next time you flip the switch.

Im not one of those raggers of the AV, I love my truck...but this IS indeed a design problem that GM should fix, but they cant because of their near failure in 2008-2009.

This problem, along with the intermittent 4WD Service problem are both a computer/sensor design flaw, and the big problem is that GM Dealers insist on replacing perfectly good actuators and encoder motors, when the real problem is the sensor is sending a signal to the computer that is "out of range" or is mis-read by the computer.

In any event, several people have turned the AC off prior to replacing a battery, only to have the Drivers side blow super hot air.

In fact last time my AC did this (Drivers Hot Air), over a year ago, I specifically turned the AC to Auto, then off prior to changing my battery...guess what...My Drivers Side blew Hot air and I had to do the whole Reset procedure a few times before the drivers side air temp would adjust.

The good thing is, most of us get it to start working again without replacing the actuator. The bad thing is, those who have paid for a new actuator, typically end up posting on this thread again.


It's not really a bad design, the defrost position is the default position and when power is restored to the vehicle it expects it to be there. The easiest way to prevent it is to turn it off before dropping battery power if you can.
« Last Edit: 09/21/11 05:39 AM by arizona-dave » Logged

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« Reply #228 on: 10/08/11 01:17 PM »

Remove the actuator in the passenger footwell closest to teh center console.  This actuates the temperature door for the driver's side. Open up the actuator and examine the black tracks that the copper fingers glide across.  These provide the sensor signal that tells the computer what the actuator position is.  I think the black tracks are some sort of resistive material.  Clean off any grease that has come off the gears and built up on the tracks, especially at the ends.  Then reassemble it and reinstall it.  It worked for me.  No more temperature issues on drivers side.
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« Reply #229 on: 10/11/11 04:18 AM »

Several other people have mentioned the same thing...the point it: DONT BUY a new actuator until your Positive the old one is actually bad! And its easy enough to do, especially when $250-$500 is at stake.

Thanks Trey!

Remove the actuator in the passenger footwell closest to teh center console.  This actuates the temperature door for the driver's side. Open up the actuator and examine the black tracks that the copper fingers glide across.  These provide the sensor signal that tells the computer what the actuator position is.  I think the black tracks are some sort of resistive material.  Clean off any grease that has come off the gears and built up on the tracks, especially at the ends.  Then reassemble it and reinstall it.  It worked for me.  No more temperature issues on drivers side.
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« Reply #230 on: 03/12/12 05:46 PM »

MOST DEFINITELY.

Every time I lose power to the vehicle, one or the other AC side blows hot.  It used to be the passenger.  Now it's the driver. 

My expensive Sears Die Hard Platinum P4 rebranded Enersys Odyssey batteries failed me the other day.  Yep.  Actually, the failure has been happening for the last 2 or 3 months, and I FINALLY diagnosed it correctly.  I kept checking the battery via the unused top posts because they represent a very convenient checking point.  The battery voltage measured about 12.5v just sitting there, which is fantastic.  Yet I was reading less than 2 volts on the start leads.  Why?   The SIDEPOST connection on the battery (not the vehicle wiring connection, but the unusual side post bar on the battery itself that bridges externally down from the top post) was failing intermittently.

I pulled the battery, brought it into a Sears store with a meter and a small load tester on a Sunday, and proved very easily that the battery maintained excellent voltage at the top terminals, and intermittant to no voltage on the ground end of the side terminals.  The best advantage of buying the Enersys Odyssey battery from Sears, under the Die Hard Platinum brand instead the Odyssey of from a mom and pop Enersys dealer isn't the $100 price savings... it is the fact that you can roll up on a LOCAL bricks and mortar Sears store after hours on a Sunday, and get it replaced for free completely, FOUR YEARS LATER.

And with that battery replacement, came this hot side AC BS again.  This time it is the driver's side.

What is the most efficient series of steps to reset the AC so the actuators relearn their proper position?
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« Reply #231 on: 03/13/12 06:06 PM »

Has anyone had the computer reset done?  I took this in to the dealer last time I had service and asked them about it. I got a questionable answer about people having this done and it causing more problems leading to a dash teardown, $1200 repairs etc.  I really felt like the SA just did not want to do it. 

Thoughts/prayers?

Hmmm....My mechanic had to remove battery power to changes a faulty right side impact sensor and now my AC is hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.

Seems this always happens when the power is disconnected for something and I always have to mess around trying different "methods" to get it going again.

Interesting note I stumbled on last night was this TSB.  I thought I should post up and share it.  The darn dealer said that although it's a TSB he still needs 4-5Hrs and $124 to fix it.   


This is actually a common problem with these vehicles. There are a couple GM service bulletins that address this concern. What has happened is the A/C control module has detected a problem with the temperature door actuator. When this happens, it defaults to the full hot position. There is a new program for the A/C module that will help with this condition, but until you can take it to a dealership for the reprogram, there are a couple things you can try to get the drivers side working. The first thing to try is to pull the HVAC fuse located in the under hood fuse block, wait about 1 minute and put it back in. Then start the vehicle, when turn the key on, the HVAC will rehome all actuators. This means that they will all be made to go to the full hot and full cold position and they will cycle from blowing out of the floor then to defrost. After this your drivers side may return to the desired position. If, while they are rehoming, you notice that the drivers side does not change at all, then you may need a new drivers side temperature actuator. In most cases the reprogram will fix what is happening. I will list the bulletin that addresses this for you to read through and get a better understanding of what is happening. If you need more help, just ask.

 

 

#06-01-38-003: Intermittent Ticking Noise from I/P, Poor A/C Performance, HVAC DTCs B0229, B0414, B0424, B3770, (Reprogram HVAC Control Module) - (Apr 27, 2006)

 

Subject: Intermittent Ticking Noise from I/P, Poor A/C Performance, HVAC DTCs B0229, B0414, B0424, B3770 (Reprogram HVAC Control Module)



Models: 2004-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
2004-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2004-2006 GMC Sierra Models, Yukon Models
with Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2, CJ3)


 

 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Condition

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following concerns:


?  Intermittent ticking/clicking noise from the instrument panel.
?  Recirculation mode does not work or Air Conditioning (A/C) system performance is poor during high ambient temperatures.
?  Unable to control the driver side temperature.
?  Unable to control the passenger side temperature.
?  Unable to change the front system modes.
Cause

This condition may be caused by the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) actuators that may hunt for the correct commanded position. This cycling may cause a clicking or ticking noise.

An overtravel of the HVAC system control doors may cause one or more of the concerns listed above. If an overtravel occurs, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be set, and the door will go to a preset default position. When a system door defaults, that door will stay at the default position until the DTC is cleared. After the DTC is cleared, the door will operate properly until the overtravel condition re-occurs.

The following table lists the HVAC system doors and the DTC associated with it.

System Door
 Overtravel DTC
 
Air inlet door (recirculation door)
 B0229
 
Left temperature door
 B0414
 
Right temperature door
 B0424
 
Front system mode door
 B3770
 
Correction
Technicians are to perform the normal diagnostic procedures in SI for these concerns. If diagnostics show that the HVAC system door(s) travel below 5 counts (out of the lower range) or above 250 counts (out of the upper range), then update the software calibrations in the HVAC control module. The new calibrations were made available to dealerships as part of TIS2000 incremental satellite update version 2.5, which was broadcast to dealers in February 2006.

The new calibrations have been updated to compensate for the actuator overtravel condition, the actuator hunting and the ticking/clicking noises. The new calibrations effectively eliminate the codes listed above, the default position of the doors associated with the DTCs and opens up the feedback position value. The new calibrations should not be used unless the vehicle has one or more of the customer concerns listed above or a DTC listed above has been set. The new calibrations will not correct any other DTC or A/C system performance concern.



Hope it helps some poor soul who is "burning in hell" with this problem.

WB
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« Reply #232 on: 03/13/12 07:19 PM »

Has anyone had the computer reset done?  I took this in to the dealer last time I had service and asked them about it. I got a questionable answer about people having this done and it causing more problems leading to a dash teardown, $1200 repairs etc.  I really felt like the SA just did not want to do it. 

Thoughts/prayers?

I think the relearn just updates the travel limits of the actuators, so they don't go through their full range.  In my case, the blob of grease built up on the end of one of the traces, preventing good contact.  So it makes sense that limiting the travel would avoid this range.  The dealers don't service the actuators, so this is their last ditch effort at working around the problem without replacing the actuator.  If you have the time, just open it up yourself and clean it like I did.
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« Reply #233 on: 03/16/12 10:43 AM »

A few pages back, I believe in 2010, I posted a procedure to re-set the actuators.

Search for my posts, or just go back and look, but it has worked for me 3 times (due to bad batteries), and several other people.

From now on, I hook up a battery charge to my terminals before taking the battery out....saves aggravation and time.

This really should be something the dealers fix, but after the government bailed out GM, they treat pre-2008 vehicles differently. Sad but true. I still love my AV though, just a few of the issues that GM and dealers refuse to properly deal with.



MOST DEFINITELY.

Every time I lose power to the vehicle, one or the other AC side blows hot.  It used to be the passenger.  Now it's the driver. 

My expensive Sears Die Hard Platinum P4 rebranded Enersys Odyssey batteries failed me the other day.  Yep.  Actually, the failure has been happening for the last 2 or 3 months, and I FINALLY diagnosed it correctly.  I kept checking the battery via the unused top posts because they represent a very convenient checking point.  The battery voltage measured about 12.5v just sitting there, which is fantastic.  Yet I was reading less than 2 volts on the start leads.  Why?   The SIDEPOST connection on the battery (not the vehicle wiring connection, but the unusual side post bar on the battery itself that bridges externally down from the top post) was failing intermittently.

I pulled the battery, brought it into a Sears store with a meter and a small load tester on a Sunday, and proved very easily that the battery maintained excellent voltage at the top terminals, and intermittant to no voltage on the ground end of the side terminals.  The best advantage of buying the Enersys Odyssey battery from Sears, under the Die Hard Platinum brand instead the Odyssey of from a mom and pop Enersys dealer isn't the $100 price savings... it is the fact that you can roll up on a LOCAL bricks and mortar Sears store after hours on a Sunday, and get it replaced for free completely, FOUR YEARS LATER.

And with that battery replacement, came this hot side AC BS again.  This time it is the driver's side.

What is the most efficient series of steps to reset the AC so the actuators relearn their proper position?
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« Reply #234 on: 03/24/12 12:27 PM »

Thanks arizona-dave...

I have a hard enough time trying to go back and find my OWN posts, especially since the format changed.  But I will get out my pick and shovel.

When I do find your instructions, I'm going to print them and put em in the glove box.

All too often I lose power to this vehicle.  And it is always for different and unpredictable reasons... gradual parasitic drain, sudden and intermittant battery failure, or recommended protocol when servicing other parts of vehicle, such as adding electrical circuits and accessories where it wouldn't be wise to leave a charger hooked on to the battery leads during the work.

I'm glad I didn't get around to spending the $1,200 to $1,800 that people reported giving to dealers to have them throw new parts at it, while throwing perfectly good parts out of it.

If you should find your procedure before I do, perhaps it should be made into a STICKY!
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« Reply #235 on: 03/24/12 07:01 PM »

I believe it's post #154.

I haven't had the problem for a long time now, but if it happens again, I will try it.

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« Reply #236 on: 03/24/12 08:34 PM »

Thanks Richie_Rich!

Hey, Arizona-Dave...   is this the reset procedure (quoted below) that you were referring to?

Or did you eventually arrive at an updated ephiphany durning the years and 100 plus posts since then?



So...Let me ellaborate on why I think my system got stuck...I installed an amp yesterday and disconnected the battery for like 10 seconds.

I read the post by subijmt and several others. And I decided to try a *fix* even easier than any others.

I simply turned on the ignition set the Drivers side to Max cold and pass side to max hot. - (Exactly what I tried doing this morning while driving - with NO reaction) - however I did this with the ignition on and no engine running, then I pressed the AUTO button - and I waited for everything to auto adjust. Then I turned the ignition off for a few seconds, then I started the engine.

And it seemed to work, I can adjust drivers and pass side temps now.

I think the key may simply be pressing the Auto Button without the engine running, then turning the ignition off and then back on.

I didnt try the fuse trick because if disconnecting the battery causes problems, then pulling a fuse (disconnecting power) doent really seem like a real fix.

Thanks Everyone - and hopefully my experience will help others.!!
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« Reply #237 on: 03/26/12 03:54 PM »

Sorry for delay, I dont check on weekends, and have fam in town.

Yes - thats the procedure I used the last time.

Its happened to me twice, th first time it happened I used a similar procedure, but turned the ignition off after adjusting each setting.

Hope it helps.


Thanks Richie_Rich!

Hey, Arizona-Dave...   is this the reset procedure (quoted below) that you were referring to?

Or did you eventually arrive at an updated ephiphany durning the years and 100 plus posts since then?



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« Reply #238 on: 03/26/12 04:32 PM »

 Thumbs up!

Thank you Arizona-Dave!

Copied into Wordpad, increased font size to 18 point, printed 3 copies:

One for the glove box, one for the maintenance file, and one to place strategically around the house somewhere... hmmmm, refrigerator? so that SHE will know we're saving $1,500.00 on a potential repair bill already almost resigned to, thanks to YOU!
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« Reply #239 on: 03/26/12 04:37 PM »

Well, thanks to several other people before me as well also.

Im glad that helped you...I roasted for 2 days before getting it fixed the first time..when the dealer couldnt tell me if it was fixable with one part or not I decided to do it myself.

The dealers always seem to want to have an open checkbook for any repair.

If they looked at these forums, they would realize a good portion of people know many repairs or not complex...as they almost always make them out to be. The whole "Let us replace the actuator and SEE if that fixes the problem" doesnt roll with me...IF the dealers are Professionally trained and have "Real" repair manuals and code references, then they should pretty well be able to guarantee a repair will fix the problem. I digress.

Glad youve been helped, and glad you can show the lady your saving the family future vacation money! haha

Thumbs up!

Thank you Arizona-Dave!

Copied into Wordpad, increased font size to 18 point, printed 3 copies:

One for the glove box, one for the maintenance file, and one to place strategically around the house somewhere... hmmmm, refrigerator? so that SHE will know we're saving $1,500.00 on a potential repair bill already almost resigned to, thanks to YOU!
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« Reply #240 on: 07/04/12 05:09 PM »

sorry to revive an old thread here. I been lurking for a while in the background trying to figure what i should do. I have an 04 avy with the digital AC and i keep getting hot on the drivers side. I tried unplugging the battery and all the other stuff you guys mentioned but nothing seemed to work. should i take this to a dealer? and if so what do I show them to try to get this fixed at no cost to me. my AV has 84000 miles on it. any info would be appreciated.
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« Reply #241 on: 07/04/12 06:39 PM »

Blend door actuator is going bad. Take it out, take it apart, wipe the grease off the contacts and reinstall it. Trey has a different post about it on here somewhere.
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« Reply #242 on: 07/05/12 02:56 PM »

Blend door actuator is going bad. Take it out, take it apart, wipe the grease off the contacts and reinstall it. Trey has a different post about it on here somewhere.
Yes, I've had the same failure of two actuators (temperature blend actuator and the vent selector actuator).  I fixed both the same way.  You can get to the temperature blend actuator fairly easily.  Take the beauty cover off the of the AC ducts in the passenger side footwell.  The blend door actuator is located just above the transmission hump.  It's held in by two or three hex-head screws.  I had to have some help from my 10 year old daughter with small hands to get one of the screws out.  Remove the actuator and pry it apart carefully.  Lift off the plastic gears until you have a clear view of the black tracks that the metal prongs slide on.  Bend the metal prongs so they have strong contact with the sliding surface.  Clean the grease blob off the tracks that is probably causing the fault.  Put it back together and reinstall.  This is easier than it sounds, and it will all be obvious when you see it.  Unhook the battery for 15 minutes, then hook it back up.  Restart the vehicle.  The actuators will go through their full cycle, then they will go to their set positions.  Everything should be fixed.

I used this same procedure to fix the actuator that moves the air from bottom to middle to top also.  It sure beats paying the dealer $280 per actuator plus installation.
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« Reply #243 on: 07/06/12 06:01 AM »

I was so not looking forward to doing this i thought there was a recall on this oh well i guess this gives me something to do.
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« Reply #244 on: 07/06/12 06:33 AM »

A/C troubleshooting is, I think, something that the dealers really don't have much of a clue about.  GM doesn't know why the things fail.  The function of the actuators is controlled by a bunch of different versions of the software, and the dealer techs can't know every option.  They just follow a generic diagnostic and pull and replace or load new firmware.  I think the software update just limits the travel of the actuators, so that that they stop short of the blob of grease that builds up inside, in the hope that it will not go to the position that causes the fault.  It doesn't really fix the problem (the blob of grease).  As a result, the door doesn't move as much as before.
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2004 Silver Birch AV 4x4, Leather, CD-Changer, DVD, chrome steps
MODS: TRUXXX Leveling Kit, HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight and Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns, Line of Fire, Smoked Taillights.
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« Reply #245 on: 07/06/12 08:59 AM »

ok let me get this straight with the problem i am having with the drivers side getting hot i need to change the one on the passenger side? I hope so that one looks easy to do. Or do I need to get to the on that is located to the right of the steering column?
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« Reply #246 on: 07/06/12 01:16 PM »

Kind of sounds like most of the GM "repair" techs are more parts changers than Repair techs.
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« Reply #247 on: 07/06/12 02:26 PM »

ok let me get this straight with the problem i am having with the drivers side getting hot i need to change the one on the passenger side? I hope so that one looks easy to do. Or do I need to get to the on that is located to the right of the steering column?
Driver side temperature is controlled by the module just above the tranny hump on the passenger side.  Passenger side temp is controlled by a module deep in the dash, and I think requires tearing it all apart. Vent selection of top, front, or floor is controlled by the module above and right of the gas pedal.  You can get to that one with from underneath.
« Last Edit: 07/06/12 04:22 PM by Trey » Logged

2004 Silver Birch AV 4x4, Leather, CD-Changer, DVD, chrome steps
MODS: TRUXXX Leveling Kit, HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight and Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns, Line of Fire, Smoked Taillights.
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« Reply #248 on: 07/06/12 03:31 PM »

I HAD THAT PROBLEM WITH MY WIFE'S 2005 GMC . DISCONNECT BOTH BATTERY CABLES HOLD THE CABLE ENDS TOGETHER FOR 1 MIN. THEN RECONNECT. THIS RESETS THE COMPUTER. IT WORKS.
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« Reply #249 on: 07/06/12 04:26 PM »

I HAD THAT PROBLEM WITH MY WIFE'S 2005 GMC . DISCONNECT BOTH BATTERY CABLES HOLD THE CABLE ENDS TOGETHER FOR 1 MIN. THEN RECONNECT. THIS RESETS THE COMPUTER. IT WORKS.
That's just temporarily treating the symptoms.  It's the same as pulling the A/C fuse and waiting a few minutes.  All that does is cycle the actuators through their full range of motion as part of the startup routine of the system.  It will get the tracks off the blob of grease for that one time, but eventually the grease blob will foul the circuit again.  When there is a fault, the actuators are commanded to a default position, which is not where you want them to be for correct A/C settings.
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2004 Silver Birch AV 4x4, Leather, CD-Changer, DVD, chrome steps
MODS: TRUXXX Leveling Kit, HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight and Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns, Line of Fire, Smoked Taillights.
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