Welcome to the Magical Mystery Tour of GM wiring
UPDATE--DEC 02--
[ ?There is NOW an adapter available from you local car audio shop [Best buy-Circuit city] that mates to the Factory Amp input plug-- and stops you from cutting into the factory harness, as this original post described.
The after market harness, made by Metra #70-2002
is a unfinished harness and some crimping or soldering will be required--- further info on page 7 & 8 ]
If you replaced your HU and speakers and kept the factory wiring and amp, you are not obtaining maximun output
After my replacements, I still was not happy with the sound but determined to correct the problem
After bypassing the factory harness at the amp, you should see me smiling
Not quite sure what GM is thinking. they're trying to gain maximun output, thru ohms and a combination of series/ paralell wiring into the amp, which degragated the sound qualityand didn't really amplify
The factory harness colors to the speakers, have not changed in many years, but where they come from the head unit and to the amp, they do
The 8 basic door speaker wires are
TAN ? LF +
GREY LF -
LT GREEN ?RF +
DK GREEN RF-
DK BLU ?RR +
LT BLU RR -
BROWN LR +
YELLO LR -
IF YOU OPEN THE GLOVE BOX & FOLD DOWN
you will be looking at the factory amp
there are two plugs
the upper is the power lead plug [and possible sub outs, that have been determined to be non-powered ]
the lower plug is the spker wires [+ amp on ]
the upper part of the lower plug is the spker wire outs
Unplug both plugs from the Amp--
on the lower harness plug, this is were you will PERFORM THE METRA HARNESS BYPASS
Or-- If you are adding new speakers, you can run the new wires to the doors from the 70-2002 harness end and not tie the wires together
Now you have a clean signal from the HU
DUE NOT PLUG THE HARNESES BACK IN TO THE AMP
THE QUAILITY OF SOUND CHANGE is TREMENDOUS
Thanks to Gatorjedi for the wiring schematics
and others that have contributed
UPDATE--DEC 02--
[ ?There is NOW an adapter available from you local car audio shop [Best buy-Circuit city] that mates to the Factory Amp input plug-- and stops you from cutting into the factory harness, as this original post described.
The after market harness, made by Metra #70-2002
is a unfinished harness and some crimping or soldering will be required--- further info on page 7 & 8 ]
If you replaced your HU and speakers and kept the factory wiring and amp, you are not obtaining maximun output
After my replacements, I still was not happy with the sound but determined to correct the problem
After bypassing the factory harness at the amp, you should see me smiling
Not quite sure what GM is thinking. they're trying to gain maximun output, thru ohms and a combination of series/ paralell wiring into the amp, which degragated the sound qualityand didn't really amplify
The factory harness colors to the speakers, have not changed in many years, but where they come from the head unit and to the amp, they do
The 8 basic door speaker wires are
TAN ? LF +
GREY LF -
LT GREEN ?RF +
DK GREEN RF-
DK BLU ?RR +
LT BLU RR -
BROWN LR +
YELLO LR -
IF YOU OPEN THE GLOVE BOX & FOLD DOWN
you will be looking at the factory amp
there are two plugs
the upper is the power lead plug [and possible sub outs, that have been determined to be non-powered ]
the lower plug is the spker wires [+ amp on ]
the upper part of the lower plug is the spker wire outs
Unplug both plugs from the Amp--
on the lower harness plug, this is were you will PERFORM THE METRA HARNESS BYPASS
Or-- If you are adding new speakers, you can run the new wires to the doors from the 70-2002 harness end and not tie the wires together
Now you have a clean signal from the HU
DUE NOT PLUG THE HARNESES BACK IN TO THE AMP
THE QUAILITY OF SOUND CHANGE is TREMENDOUS
Thanks to Gatorjedi for the wiring schematics
and others that have contributed