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O2 sensor removal

frito

frito

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Dec 12, 2013
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Cincinnati, OH
OK, I have tried multiple rounds of heat, Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster and can't break my passenger side upstream O2 sensor free to save my life.  I am now hitti g desperation mode.  Would I be crazy to try to snap the end off so I can fit a full socket and breaker bar on it.  If that fails, how far can I safely drive it.  The mechanic is maybe 5 - 7 miles away which will be my final option if this fails.
 
I've researched this frito. Did you know about special spark plug socket, it's suppose to ease torque with long handle. It's a aweful environment where those o2 sensors live. They make tools for it

Youtube: "How to replace a oxygen (o2) sensor" by car and driver magazine
 
TroopToUtility said:
I've researched this frito. Did you know about special spark plug socket, it's suppose to ease torque with long handle. It's a aweful environment where those o2 sensors live. They make tools for it

Youtube: "How to replace a oxygen (o2) sensor" by car and driver magazine
Click to expand...
. Thanks.  I've been using them and if hasn't budfed.  I had to use the on that has the slot for the socket wrench on the side as the full length that looks like a traditional socket has about an inch too little clearance.  At this point, I'm going to destroy the top half of the sensor so I can get a full socket and breaker bar on it.  I'm getting six point sockets as I type this as I'm sure the twelve possible nt sockets I own will just round it off.  What I don't know is, if this fails -which it probably will the way my luck has been, can I drive it to the shop without an O2 sensor or should I have it towed because driving if will cause too much damage. 
 
I'd leave it in, then take it to the shop.
 
Honestly I have had this issue with oil plug being stripped on my old silverado. It's pretty interesting what shops do for free or a simple $20 bill. Why don't you just ask them to loosen it for you, take it home and complete install. You'll be surprised on what they would do. And it's a lot cheaper than them doing the whole thing.
 
I gave it one last round of heat and no dice, still wouldn't budge.  I'm taking both of your advice and am going to take it to the shop.  Heck, while I'm at it I may have them replace the fuel filter I bought.  I'm concerned the fuel line is going to snap if I try to loosen the fitting.  It looks pretty rusted.  The thing is it has a full tank of gas so I the lines need to be replaced, now is not the time. 

I did buy one of these https://www.goodson.com/Oil-Gallery-Wax-Sticks/.  The "Hack Mechanic", a blogger for the BMW Car Club of America is always talking about using his wax stick to un-seize 20+ year old break lines, etc. with it.  I figure it couldn't hurt to try.  I should have ordered it sooner so I could have tried it on this O2 sensor.
 
Well, even though the bank 2 (passenger side) sensor is now fried, literally  :laugh:, it is running a lot better.  It still idles a little rough, but no worse than before.  It also seems to have a little more jump.  Here are some screen shots from my Torque app.  This first one is from Friday before I managed to replace the bank one sensor.  It was running horribly, felt like it was going to shake apart and had a bad exhaust smell.

_BcjPGhDNPtvLhEHmyjzx2HIcEqwniuds5DVJUi0JMVmYFoo3UsLPww8r-Fxib5dCdUtdEAB5YgMuj_AFYq4UmvfFqGJf3EnauwKEV8Q1tYgnfrjjtlhy4ARr5CzYlA1Ct4A55u0j4qaerEL-l3BbeEUd8Yypg0whWybcCGFgMmAeb5QHdlfVntNj5V02A1yrDsWrNtnk4MNHvqif3-ipLFhyy-av3zTxfIWHFkIGl1UN_Ksu8zj-j-qO0wZCHkYDVsri3z32jV8e0G4xjA1qdUxMjQaMKICKuEayXBoom9LmGaZUER8XOZMbO2LZmzUMMBaNwqpROQ3lhEasbXudR7j9jsLgBPBbHa4xD2EIBAUIl-bNSGQwxv4rjeaHWnqhS0aXlc8EkuhU-qJ_NpmOSt_BcgwlHqYhvU7sWLNt8vhQhyFelCLpq5z906tYcKVqstCaNNFRdrzQix0s2vAz89WjIzMBoHl1uloP3FLOw5Fvk9lEoSI9SAejP1ZRP9jkJGpF0YudkLZV-cBG76xZO9kK8TDVs-jTGpjE4v9lO0=w533-h947-no


Here are the pending faults after clearing the previous faults and taking it for a spin.  After it warmed up it it was running so much better than Friday.  You can see the bum O2 sensor now moved from bank one to bank two.  The P1153 looks to also be O2 sensor related.  It's also running in open loop even though it is at operating temperature.

LUe9ap4hG39SJ3gAlvvQ_ndtaVnx9gBvOax7DXOzS10kD5EeQ7XCubumUVuhRC2hYoCpQfucZDQfGidj97BsPvqK5sBkY0tRr5QUzpE2h-LB5IRTU8WqoHfy-PhLfwQ6KjcjlozKBC9JwtVvvchqWxHe8B3O9VdoUF8Ad2AsVxTUI7MvLzLDJJdjxLEvZw2gMbPUZNmNFYUmYdJk3-qybSZKiMQKT1IQMqxlfzilAkkNiaLhTrkzxGvB_JjhCmzvS7ACK01bfwsJuRlT0PUYALdqH2ISSieJhLHWj6VL0OYh8zXcTuLTr_3u_NC4m6l6rlH2naAF3s4iPc4EFIKvD7I_YtBU7-S6c6t5u246jo0qlkdh2MzK9MpD1izQodWYoVHx1aT8_9BFCgGyhcwuVcI-DMaWrilFvy9ToW13XuIajGT6FPGiSZRXZrSRx6pUJWI_iPSPBcxZ84BkJq-tpUG8_1DAPbTqT2diKjoc961R5rb3QWu7RGY4Ypiibq7DEFqm1u4xwNpOCzG3BZvr_zpS2nPw9O_6aSDhbKFZ0Vs=w533-h947-no


Here's the telltale shot that the bank two sensor is toast.  It's not registering at all.

bGy3dGfZhUALyQd6mo1f4bGESD_nATVbZO_e1R1fLdq6GrEgeC1i1FpyxFP28ULbwju3AT6DYxBfm_wP7MpvHAQkaHSkt7Tu00pjRfvlF8hfDpHqV-wZHrEURQo7VDoPLftmwxKoVIBeJH2eYnY9XWb3811NpS07Ou0omQ-ni0SXbENX7lTIafVIX8Evn_G08QNHYdniqv28EpmHwZsNxvQwoOucUnYOTRM3ok53VZsVERVJXBxBnm4W1Gj1GiBE-JwBHXUBDVkdrdXtQ1aLvlkth6nhH924uC5bif623FVoBLOfoa3qjo1HaEmarUv5KaGu4QlTpRdSIT_jR9c_s5oA0WP8hsMoCDPS-CvPouoW9VvkNmPEEiramjypnf-ycVJ6HDGPcoD1LHALoQOVzA3OA2Yn9xl8gajUX_9TitkD5LhHXHHefGE3T4tae81fwTqQXkSPs_HR5WQjm2zq3uwiyi79rnX8eblGrFZwFUXwFcXHCyXtfr9w-M9w51wL-T4gnrFdSZlTFw718kxFW4omHmjYtXPOCtjlPndo7AE=w533-h947-no
 
I'm running across similar concerns now. My exhaust pressure is good. So cats are good. Next step is waiting for my scanner to see if I have replacement o2 sensors in my future. I can't believe how tight those fuel filters are. Most things in engine compartment on 2500 are ergonomically placed well. But underneath truck, it's a mess.

Let me know how the new o2's work. I think it will troubleshoot most problems you have. These avalanches electronics, sensors, and actuators are high sensitive. One thing goes, it feels like you need a engine rebuild or transmission replacement lol
 
Been there...  cut my wire to get a 6 Pt deep on it and wrenched it out with a breaker bar...  it stripped the threads.  Ended up driving 2 to 3 miles to shop to have new bung welded. I Paid 50 bucks.  It didn't hurt anything to have to drive it a short while without a sensor.  Just sounds loud. Lol.  If your close I'd just crank on it.  You might get lucky.  This is why I tell ppl not to change the plugs unless u get a code.  I'd hate for that to happen without actually needing to change the sensor.
 
Mine were a pain too, I wound up taking it to our shop so I could lift the truck with the crane and get a better grip on it.
 
wyotonka said:
Mine were a pain too, I wound up taking it to our shop so I could lift the truck with the crane and get a better grip on it.
Click to expand...
Man, I wish I had that option.  I'm dropping it off tonight for an appointment tomorrow.  The next feat will be replacing the fuel filter without snapping the other new.  I have a full tank of gas so that's going to wait until I'm closer to empty than full.
 
When I did my fuel pump I ran as low as I could get and kept a 5gal can in the back  :laugh: I wanted as little fuel in there as possible and the tank is surprisingly light when its empty. The fuel filter in the line on mine was pretty seized and my lines don't show rust, with your track record on brake lines I feel your anxiety towards it though  :beating: . It really helped my truck when I swapped it though. If you pull your fuel pump fuse you can start the truck and run it til it dies and your fuel line should be fairly clear to do the filter without running low on fuel.  (y)
 
Well, I dropped it off at the shop tonight for them to do the O2 sensor.  I went ahead and wrote a note for them to replace the fuel filter I already bought if they can do so without snapping the lines.  I just want it done and have a project ahead with my wife's Flex.  There's just enough time in the day to get it all done.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390BS7C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
 
Vegas Mike said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390BS7C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
Click to expand...
I borrowed an O2 removal set that included one of those from Advance Auto.  It didn't work. 

Update: I spent over eight hours trying to get the thing off and finally took it to the shop.  It took them fours hours to get it off.  I also had then do the fuel filter since it was in the air.  I put probably 20 miles on it total between replacing the plugs & wires and getting it to the shop.  That was enough to foul the passenger side plugs.  They had to remove and clean them in order to stop the codes.  It's running very well now though the DIC is showing no improvement in mpg.  I'm hoping the computer is trying to figure out the improved spark and the actual mpg will dar exceed that which the DIC shows.  I'll post an update after my next fill up.

Oh yeah, I did a tune up on my wife's Flex yesterday.  Since I had to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs I figured I'd try the O2 sensors as well as a preventative measure.  Some PB Blaster and a deep removal tool year the tool just wants to spin over the head.  Why in Hades are the removal tools 7/8 inch while the sensor bolt is 22 mm.  :E:  Since it really only needed plugs, I chose to button it back up instead of damaging the sensors.  It's running much better.
 
fyi even though you are done.... When they are stuck, you can't use those o2 removal sockets to get them off (the kind with the wire cutout) because the socket will flex and start rounding out your sensor hex grip (i had 3 different styles of these "specialty" sockets before i cut the wires).  You must cut the wires and use a quality 6 point deep socket and a LONG breaker bar.   I cannot believe it took a shop 4 hours to get that off...   i am a novice and could have removed that in 15 minutes (although you would have had to get a new bung welded to thread a new one in).  I also tried to repair my threads with a thread chaser (to no luck).

Also getting a new bung welded is really not that big of a deal...  it took a muffler shop maybe 15-20 minutes.




 
I've never had one stuck to the point that removing it damaged the bung threads.  I've also never used those sockets with the slot for the wires - I've always had good luck using an open ended wrench and when called for a BFH to provide some extra motivation.  That said I don't know that I've ever removed some that have been in place as long as it seems frito's have been.
 
enoniam said:
I've never had one stuck to the point that removing it damaged the bung threads.  I've also never used those sockets with the slot for the wires - I've always had good luck using an open ended wrench and when called for a BFH to provide some extra motivation.  That said I don't know that I've ever removed some that have been in place as long as it seems frito's have been.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's been my experience in the past.  The driver's side worked just like that.  A few rounds of Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster, one round of heat, a pipe wrench and it came right out. 

marzahld said:
I cannot believe it took a shop 4 hours to get that off... 
Click to expand...
I'm not sure, but I suspect the four hours included doing the fuel filter, checking/clearing the codes and cleaning the fouled plugs.  Regardless, it did give them fits too.
 
So, after replacing my plugs, front O2 sensors, fuel filter and 8.5 mm MSD plug wires as well as two bottles of Techron, I am still getting only 13.5 mpg range (two tanks after the parts and one tank on the Techron).  I'm beginning to think I have clogged cats and that the vibration/drone I sense at 70+ MPH isn't suspension related but rather back pressure building up.  I checked both pre and post CAT temperatures.  Driver side had a bit higher temperature at the exit while the driver side was the same or lower at the exit. (n) 
 
Did you clean the MAF ?
 
The engine has to be able to accurately  measure the amount of air coming into the motor to set the fuel trims. I clean mine twice a year. Another 10 dollar fix.

41fX171WA3L._SY355_.jpg
 
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