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Preventive maintenance on 03 AV 2500 at dealer.. $900???

TroopToUtility

Full Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
70
Hey there. I'm new but have put my few words in a couple times, also introduced myself. I am a Army vet that has operate level skills on a lot of big rigs in service doing PMC&S work on our vehicles. Now I'm a lone wolf on the road traveling to 7 states on my big power utility substation construction sites.

I have a 03 AV 2500 with 175k miles on it. I'm wondering if a GM dealer is ripping me off by quoting $900 for preventive maintenance service which includes all fluids from front to rear, taking off covers for some of these fluids, checking for metal shavings in the areas where you already know there at, and reading the computer and all other readings you can with GM parts. That service wouldn't include replacement sensors ect.

Need some of the techs advise here.
 
If your talking all fluids, it's not too bad, maybe a little high.. That's probably one tech most of the day to complete, plus fluids. If you can get them to check the brakes, rotate the tires and wash it, that might be worth it.

Coolant
Power steering
Transmission
Engine oil
Front diff
Rear diff
Transfer case
 
It does sound about right, my dealer wants 400 bucks just to flush the tranny fluid. You're better off doing it yourself if you can.
 
Thanks for the post. I'm going to move ahead with GM dealer. If there is anything that pops up with the truck, I'll just ask them if the problem is severe or can I get 2k miles more out of it before fix. The reason is I get paid weekly but depending on the problems I'll have to tackle one at a time with budget.

They said they'll even do slippage fluids too. I think it's a good deal now.

I'm going to buy a tester with amp capability and a reader, for when I'm on the road. It's already apparent if I'm on the road I might as well get the simple to intermediate things shipped to my ups address and fix them myself.

I had a bad ground under dash board that killed engine. The red power wire melted to the steering metal frame. It was a quick fix. My issues are most likely going to be wiring, smalls motors, and sensors.

New tires and breaks were put on two weeks ago.

Unfortunately I think it's not good that I'm 6 miles from my current site in WA. I don't think it's good for the engine for small travel, I'm warming it up for 15 minutes before moving now that it is cold out..
 
One last thing I can suggest is to cut a hole in the floor and buy a spare fuel pump, if you are on the road allot. It's not if it will go out, it's when will it go out and usually at the most inconvenient time.

The 2500 fuel pump are not usually stocked in part stores, you want the forward fuel pump since 2500 have 2 of them. Amazon sells them pretty cheap.
 
I did not know this! I'm going to avoid holes in truck bed at all cost. Sure it will be more money. I'm going to check out fuel pumps tonight on amazon.

It turns out I had two bad fuses in driver side compartment. So far I just have a a/c actuator that will whine when I have the dual climate on head fan.

I have a quiet engine at idle. I rebooted computer today after fried wire under dash. Sounded like rockers/lifters ticked during accelerations/up hill, and had power loss. I have not tried running it after reboot yet.

I know to watch out for:

Fuel pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Leaky injector
Catalytic converter clogging
Vacuum
Fuel filter
Crankshaft position sensor
Throttle body
Ignition timing
Knock sensors
Camshaft lobe and pitted lifters

I've prepared for all the mysteries, and I should be able to break it down into steps. I have heard 175k miles on these 2500's is nothing. I hope I can get into 300k miles, but have read some of these trucks just don't last. If so Im pretty sure I'll keep her. Might be a 6.6 DIESEL BUT I WILL TRY TO STAY WITH THE 8.1 L.
 
235,000 on mine, I'm on the West Coast so rust is not a problem. 8.1L's are built for a 200,000 mile life and will go allot further.. When GM built them for Mercury Marine they had to pass an endurance test, they ran them at full throttle for 300 hours idling them for 5 minutes after every hour of run time. Not many motors could pass the test and that technology is in the truck motors..

They put more horsepower and torque than Ford or Dodges motors in the same class and also gets better mileage. Hard to beat the 8.1L..
 
It is hard to beat the 8.1

They say it will beat any diesel before 2009. I'll most likely keep this truck after a motor/transmission replacement. I'll probably get a new diesel, but always keep the avalanche.

With 235k miles on your 2500, I'll keep you close by my friend. You can be my guide on future repairs while im out in the wilderness. My man!

I'm in Washington right now, was in AZ last. I'm headquartered out of Fort Collins CO. And I'm most likely going to start working for the city of Fort Collins come end of 2016.

I absolutely love this truck man.
 
I've had rotten bump stops for years on my 1500 and it hasn't seemed to be a problem.

I'd try running some Marvel Mystery Oil or something similar to see if it can help with the lifter tick you've been hearing.  Power loss at around 2500 may be due to cats getting clogged and starting to resist higher airflow.
 
Take a look at this post for bump stop, when I put the heavy duty ones on it did improve the handling.

http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,126869.0.html


There is area for 2500 owners Perf: 2500 Specific Perfomance Mods

It will give you a idea what the 2500 owners are doing to make them handling better.

http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/board,47.0.html
 
Much appreciated. I knew catalytic converter clogging could be the issue. I wrote that in my things to look out for.

Wonder if the GM dealer could fix that quickly.
 
MS 03 2500...YOU GOT IT RIGHT...no offense to 1500 owners, the 2500 8.1L seriously runs different. It is a whole new animal when it comes to part selection. This motor needs a certain love. It really does take special thought into what you give her. Suspension is good. But since the bump stops fell apart steering has been different on turns. It moves a little over bump. I'm looking into the heavy duty bump stops before I hit the road.

I'm getting 11.7 average on fuel. Computer also reads 260 miles to empty on full fill up. I know with a 37.5 gallon tank this thing should still get high 300 miles on a fill up.

Your opinion? Computer system or is it really telling the truth.
 
My bump stops are shot also, just haven't replaced them yet..

I know what you mean about driving a 2500, I love mine also.. Just doesn't feel like 7,000 lbs truck. I've had more that one comment on how it rides, handles and accelerates especially when I tell them it has a big block and weighs 7,000 lbs.

As far as mileage it's the only negative on a 2500.. I've gone 450 miles on 35 gallons(12.:cool: from Nor Cal to So Cal and that's going over the Grapevine and at 80mph, but that doesn't happen to often. Usually I fill up between 1/8 -1/4 about 30-32 gallons 320 -350 miles combo city/highway about 11 mpg. If I keep it under 80 I could pick a mpg or two but I typically cruise at 80 when there's no traffic.


Yours has 175,000 on it.. Has any of the front suspension been replaced? If not it's due, I did mine at 170,000.
 
Name a few things about front suspension that I should look at. As suspension is a bunch of parts that make it up.

You say you get about 11 mpg according to computer. Mine says 11.7 mpg, but at fill up the computer reads "260 miles til empty"....is it the computer? Or am I seeing a real issue?

So far I kept close tab on it in the past 3 weeks. 14 miles a day for commute, and I was 5/8's through a tank. So I'm thinking the computer is wrong saying "260 til empty" when full.

I'm looking at those bump stops ms03 2500 posted. But when I go to the website they show the bumps stops to be sketched rounded, not triangular. But part number says "LOWER CNTRL ARM BUMPER - GM (15835667)"

I'm also really debating if cats are clogged now, bc at ignition I go to engine on passenger side and hear a burp like sound (almost fuel rich) down there. (Enoniam: I mistaken his message for catalytic converter by accident).
 
How much do you want to spend. LOL

This thing works great best 400 buck I ever spent. ss175k8

http://www.supersteerparts.com/products/supersteer-idler-arm-brace-kit-gm-trucks

Yes the bumpstop is on the lower control arm

Think about adding a rear swaybar and a steering stabilizer.
 
I can manage these items actually. I'm willing to spend. I'm just big into justifying my purchases lol

It seems (to me) that I'm in for a long run of parts, now that this beast has been on wheels for 12 years.

What bothers me is the computer reading "260 miles til empty" with full tank. I swore it was saying high 300's before.
 
If you are going to keep it go ahead spend the bucks. But when I full up it's 450 miles to empty.

Now understand it's a average and depends on how you are driving. City stop and go it's going to be low. Must times I drive highway under 70.
 
I can't help with the trip/mileage computer, 02's didn't have the display... I use the Torque app on my phone/OBD II port to get the real time mpg.
 
Thanks MS03 2500! I'll let you know when I'm road again heading 900 miles. Maybe that was why I flipped out bc right now I'm on city driving conditions and it changed so rapidly.

You guys have a good night. Keep in touch. MS03 2500, I saved your links (all of them) I'm looking into purchasing cost tomorrow. It's good to spend and keep this truck running smooth. Honestly this 03 2500 has had a good life, it will be on the road for a while making the 2500 crowd proud.
 
FYI on cats - don't have a dealer do it.  Go to a muffler shop or do it yourself.
 
enoniam...good call on muffler shop.

Shoreline WA place will test for free.

If it is catalytic converter, well there are two. And Flowmaster & MagnaFlow both have cats $100 a piece. That's pricey.

MS03 2500....if cats are trash, I'm finding the problem that caused it. Shops and forums are saying it could be due to fuel system. Which include ignition, coils, spark plugs, injectors, vacuums, and fuel pump. "Running rich" is the muffler shops opinion, I would think "running lean."

This would explain all the power loss. If it's one injector/coil/spark plug well that's a cheapm "do it yourself fix." But add on 2 cats, still a little pricey. And overall in a month I'll probably be replacing more.

After muffler test on Monday, if cats are bad, I'll know exactly what could be causing the problem. Trouble shoot the fuel system as a whole.

Instead of getting a bill at $100 for automobile scanning, I found a actron 9570 scanner for $89 in box on ebay. Live feed, side by side look at graphs in action with live numbers. Full detailed descriptions.

You guys haven't failed me yet. What's your .02?
 
Here is my truck. Finally am able to upload it.
 

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2 words "Running rich", so you need to check it all. The cats try to burn off the excessive hydro carbon(gas) in the exhaust if they have too much they will get hot and melt inside and restrict the exhaust flow..

Geesh I wondered why the picture in your profile did not match a 2500. LOL
 
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