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Steering Wheel Controls

bmorris

Full Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
105
Location
Colorado
2 weeks ago I put on JBA Headers (y) As many of you know in doing so the oxygen sensor will start throwing codes and force the check engine light on. In looking at the codes it states that its "lean" so in speaking with the dealer he stated that was normal. There have been several posts on here regarding tuning after you install which will be done in the coming week (5/27). After a day or so with the "check engine" light on the air bag sensor came on, which I believe is related but not; next came my stabilitrack and traction control which turns off once the engine gets to operating temperature-the dealer says many of these issues will be corrected once tuning is completed however a new problem occurred yesterday :E: (5/1:cool: none of the controls on the steering wheel operate. I've checked the fuse panel both under the hood and by the drivers side and find nothing that relates to the steering wheel  :help:

Not sure if its prudent to the conversation but the first step was to disconnect the negative from the battery as we would be in close proximity to the starter. Everything else was pretty much cut & dry, the only other thing that was removed/disconnected was the steering yoke and the heat shield below. Due to it was snowing and raining heavily the day we put the headers on the heat shield was left off but will be put back on.

Does anyone know if the steering wheels malfunction is related to all these codes or is there a fuse possibly blown or am I screwed?

Help me Obi-Wan...your my only hope
 
Um, I don't recall any issues with oxygen sensors when I installed my JBA shorty headers.  You may have an exhaust leak with them.

I'd say your other problems are due to a bad ground or power connection.  A failing ignition switch is known to cause numerous strange electrical issues.
 
well the O2 sensor would be disrupted once there is more flow for the exhaust thats why the dealer said it was normal and will correct itself once I take it to the tuner. The airbag sensor indicator light I do believe occurred when I hooked the negative back-up but the steering wheel thing has got be baffled :E: Just a few more days and perhaps Finish Line Automotive will be able to tell me whats wrong; camping season is just around the corner and I'd like to have these issue fixed by then
 
bmorris said:
well the O2 sensor would be disrupted once there is more flow for the exhaust thats why the dealer said it was normal and will correct itself once I take it to the tuner.

Dealer cop out  (n)
 
When the steering yoke was disconnected, you didn't "spin" your steering wheel, did you?
That would damage the wiring harness in the steering column.
 
When the headers were installed did they install the o2 sensors back into the headers? Sounds like they didn't install the O2 sensors properly. You should NOT have any O2 sensor issues by changing the header... Unless of course they damaged the O2 sensors when moving them over. Personally I would have installed new AC Delco sensors.

Also have to insure the wiring wasn't shorted against the headers... Also check that the Ground strap from the engine is connected to the fire wall still. In my truck there is a ground strap that runs from the drivers side of the engine to the firewall next to the master cylinder. If that was broken during the install of the header you would have some different issues. I am not sure if there are any other ground straps but I would check around the headers very carefully.

I am guessing the front O2 sensors are in the headers since I also assume the headers bolt up to the Cats.

Rodney
 
jmuller62 said:
When the steering yoke was disconnected, you didn't "spin" your steering wheel, did you?
That would damage the wiring harness in the steering column.

I don't believe so but the issue did not start until Monday about 2 weeks after installation. I will check though.
 
redheadedrod said:
When the headers were installed did they install the o2 sensors back into the headers? Sounds like they didn't install the O2 sensors properly. You should NOT have any O2 sensor issues by changing the header... Unless of course they damaged the O2 sensors when moving them over. Personally I would have installed new AC Delco sensors.

Also have to insure the wiring wasn't shorted against the headers... Also check that the Ground strap from the engine is connected to the fire wall still. In my truck there is a ground strap that runs from the drivers side of the engine to the firewall next to the master cylinder. If that was broken during the install of the header you would have some different issues. I am not sure if there are any other ground straps but I would check around the headers very carefully.

I am guessing the front O2 sensors are in the headers since I also assume the headers bolt up to the Cats.

Rodney

in removing the headers I do not recall anything within the manifold that sat separately or within the manifold itself. I will check around the headers to ensure there are no ground straps or wires out of place. Thanks
 
Okay, luckily I'm good friends with our property manager and he was the crew chief for a couple race cars here in CO, we looked over everything that was mentioned: the steering column, the grounds, and the oxygen sensor.

The yoke does not appear to have any wires (at least that can be seen). The engine ground strap is still secure and was not removed in any part of installation. The O2 sensor sits alone on the drivers side front and does not get removed and or messed with when disconnecting the manifolds.

There is always the possibility that everything that has happened is coincidence...its unsettling to say the least :E:
 
You need to start looking at are the systems not working or throwing codes getting proper power.

As I already noted the ignition switch is notorious for causing numerous electrical problems to appear at once because power for many circuits is controlled by it.
 
Enoniam,

I can say that when putting the key in the ignition it takes a couple jiggles in order to start. In speaking with my property manager he also noticed and thinks this could be one of the issues.

Also, I run a "SuperChip" and he suggested I remove the performance upgrade and re-install the stock file. In doing so I noticed that the check engine light turned off and has not came back on however the "service air bag" idiot light remained and after getting to operating temp the stabilitrak/traction control idiot light will chime on stating it needs to be serviced.

All this could not come at a worse time in the financial aspect.... :E:
 
I will give you the standard reply I have given others... Get your codes pulled... ;)

I have a very nice setup for mine and while a little costly is very convienient and I can pull any code on my truck and it will let me look at pretty much anything and make my own custom screens to show information.

I have a $100 tablet (ANY TRUE windows tablet with a true USB port will work. I have an 8" tablet I bought from Microcenter that is GREAT. It is listed as $129 but goes on sale for $100 often. It is a full blown computer...)

I bought the Scantool USB ODBII scanner. This is cheaper than any scan tool. When paired with a cheap tablet it is comparable to the more expensive units you can get at the parts store but can do way more.  Was about $40. It comes with a decent free software package that will diagnose the ABS system and most of the other diagnostics. Will not do AirBag however but is nice for looking at just about anything.

I also added on the full blown ScanXL Pro onto this. With the extended GM support it cost another $200 but you may not need everything this has. But then again, you buy it once and it will work with any GM vehicle from '96 to today. It hasn't been updated for the latest vehicles but it still is very useful even for a 2015. The extended GM stuff is not necessary but I bought it anyhow. I think the software was like $125 without the extended stuff.

I can't suggest strongly enough that something like this is very nice to have. Even just the basic free software it comes with.

Rodney
 
Thank  you for the advice however I must point out that the SuperChip FlashPaq is able to read the codes is what your saying different than what I have?
 
I am not familiar with that product. I am sure there are MANY scanning packages out there. Personally I don't have any trust in any "automatic" tuners so I won't be buying any of them anytime in the near future.

But you can certainly look at the product on Scantool.net and compare to what you have and see what it is.

One thing about the Scantool stuff... The main free software should work with ANY ODBII vehicle.... The Paid program is dedicated to GM, Ford or chrysler. The hardware is compatible with any of them too.

I am assuming your programmer is limited to what it can communicate with.

Rodney
 
redheadedrod said:
I am not familiar with that product. I am sure there are MANY scanning packages out there. Personally I don't have any trust in any "automatic" tuners so I won't be buying any of them anytime in the near future.

But you can certainly look at the product on Scantool.net and compare to what you have and see what it is.

One thing about the Scantool stuff... The main free software should work with ANY ODBII vehicle.... The Paid program is dedicated to GM, Ford or chrysler. The hardware is compatible with any of them too.

I am assuming your programmer is limited to what it can communicate with.

Rodney


I think it is good for just the 5.3. When ordered I had to provide the year/make/model of the vehicle and the tune was specific to the engine/computer/transmission. The Flashpaq will tell me exactly what the code is, number wise as well as translated-today the engine light is giving me the code that the Oxygen sensor voltage is low on the left bank. I think only once did it throw a code that I had to ask and it had something to do with the fuel as I attempted to use E85 and I didn't follow the owners manual for proper mixture. Apparently if you switch mid way through the gas has to be at a certain level before you add regular unleaded-guess I should of read the section on E85 in the manual...lesson learned
 
My gf has  2013 silverado and all it says is you must put in a minimum number of gallons of gas or e85 and drive like 15 miles for the truck to figure out the new mixture. But I think either the manual or the dealer said not to keep mixing. It is best to use one and stay with it for a while. It is probably best to wait until near empty and fill up but it is NOT required from the manual in my GF's truck...

Rodney
 
Okay...now I think I have it all figured out. Yesterday (5/27) I took the Avy to Finish Line Automotive and had it dyno'd and tuned. As with any standard tuning they are going to hook up the computer to scan and check codes and what not. It'll bring up a schematic, of sorts, so the tuner can see what can be adjusted. In running the preliminary scan we got the code that simply translates to the LB is running lean. After a few minutes it was realized that the O2 sensor was just bad-the tech tried to do some things to see if it would activate to no avail. For those who don't know exactly what this sensor does I will tell you that it does more than just monitoring the oxygen/exhaust as its leaving. It also controls how the fuel is administered. Since the "LB" indicated it was lean the sensor compensates this loss by adding more fuel to the right bank. In the end you have wasted fuel. Either way the oxygen sensor was replaced the code cleared.

Now here's where I was kinda bummed. When I purchased my truck (and even though I know now what I didn't know then I would buy her again) I did a lot of research and price comparisons. One thing that stood out was that off the dealer floor the hp was at 330. When we initiated the Dyno the hp was 237; far from 330. When asked the tech said that many dealers/manufacturers base the hp off the flywheel. In actuality the hp should be gauged at the rear wheels. The tech said that trucks get robbed from the transmission and the transfer case as well as the stabilitrak/traction control...everything is monitored.

Regardless, when I left I was at nearly 280 at the rear wheels which is a good improvement.

Now for the rest. My initial posting was in regards to the steering wheel: no horn, no power, and the service air bag light was on. Additionally the stabilitrak and traction control disengaged once I started driving...well here's the rest:

When installing headers there were some things removed: spark plug wires/dip stick/steering yoke. Not too much and it all came off nicely. As we progressed in the installation it was realized that to get to the flange underneath we should jack up the truck and remove the tires. Not immediately realizing that once the truck was lifted it became difficult to undo the lug nuts. This enters a new person. I ask "Grant" if he'll get in the truck and hold the brake so I can remove the nuts and tire. As I'm prying down the wheel wants to turn in and it becomes difficult. "Grant" sees my difficulties and turns the wheel realizing the steering wheel is just free to spin...and so he does. Its laughable and its not immediatly realized that he'd done anything wrong.

As you know, these days everything has a sensor even the steering wheel. Yes the steering wheel was straight when it was reconnected however what was not know was that it was at -780...a long way from "0". Due to this the sensor relays back to the computer that my wheels are beyond the 'norm" and to disengage the traction control/stabilitrak...which it does.

Due to "Grant" having fun spinning the wheel it is theorized that the spring behind the airbag was damaged which the conductivity was disrupted causing the issue.
 
bmorris said:
well the O2 sensor would be disrupted once there is more flow for the exhaust thats why the dealer said it was normal and will correct itself once I take it to the tuner.

Dealer cop out verified...   :beating:

Thanks for letting us know what was causing your troubles.  Your story may help someone else having similar difficulties down the road.  (y)
 
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