2003 parking brake adjustment?

My parking brake feels like it has no pressure and does not hold it in place when parked. Where do I adjust it? I'm thinking at the brakes in the back? Also where can I get a 2002-2006 Factory Service Repair manual? I checked on ebay with no luck.

My parking brake feels like it has no pressure and does not hold it in place when parked. Where do I adjust it? I'm thinking at the brakes in the back? Also where can I get a 2002-2006 Factory Service Repair manual? I checked on ebay with no luck.

Found this link on you tube that might be helpful to all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKo90qUzOPg

At wherever the cable adjuster is toward the rear of the truck.

Helms.

There's a rear "drum" brake that's part of the rotor. It has an adjusting wheel just like a regular drum brake. I found it best to pull the rotor off to adjust the wheel. It takes a few attempts to get the pressure adjusted right when you put the rotor back on. Too loose and you get the result you have now - parking brake pedal goes to the floor and it doesn't hold. Too tight and it drags without the parking brake engaged.

Word of caution...

Unless you are willing to replace the whole parking brake cable, pads and associated hardware DO NOT MESS WITH IT...

If you apply the parking brake and the cable is corroded at all you will have it apply and not be able to disable it. Becomes a real pain to get to once it has locked up. Can't get the rotors off to access the hardware because the brakes are applied... You then end up having to cut the cable and hope the brake releases...

I have heard more than once if you don't consistently use the parking brake do not use it at all on any car where the Ebrake is a cable driven brake separate from your main brakes.

Had a monte carlo I was riding in have the cable seize up on it... Not something you want to have happen in the winter... Although it is a little easier to climb under an avalanche than a monte carlo in the snow...

I have disconnected the E-Brake on my truck. When I priced the parts it was more expensive than having it in working condition was worth.

Rodney

They are on ebay... Not cheap but IMO a must have if you work on your own vehicle...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Avalanche-Suburban-Tahoe-Yukon-Escalade-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-Set-1-4-/251543815593?hash=item3a912e05a9&vxp=mtr

There are also GM service guides on DVD available too. If you look in the right places you might find some interesting things online.

MS03 purchased a set of manuals on DVD legitimately and maybe he can let you know what vehicles they cover and how much it cost.

Rodney

You do have to take the rear rotors off...  If you turn the adjustment barrels on both parking brake shoes they will expand the diameter and tighten up...  There is a spec for shoe diameter to the inside of the rotor diameter which you will need to measure both if you want it perfect.  I don't recall the exact # difference... maybe 1/16".  I bought new shoes and sized mine big-then smaller until I could get the rotor back on over it.  It holds good now and the pedal doesn't go to the floor...  however, sometimes they will bind and now fail to release requiring me to move the truck in reverse about an inch to get them to release...  They will release going forward too, but it makes an awful noise...      I need to check my work, but its been too cold and using reverse to unbind them is quite easy...  I also bought cheaper aftermarket shoes... this may not be a good idea... 

Also...  just remembered I had my chilton manual in the truck...  The spec in there says 0.026 inch.  I really doubt the brake shoe is designed perfect enough to get this kind of accuracy all the way around...  if you take it apart or look at new shoes you will see what I mean.

You can get a chilton at any auto parts store instead of factory manuals if you want it will show you how to do the whole job including messing with the equalizer nut if you need to do that as well.  The equalizer just makes the cable apply even pressure to both shoes.

redheadedrod said:

Word of caution...

Unless you are willing to replace the whole parking brake cable, pads and associated hardware DO NOT MESS WITH IT...

If you apply the parking brake and the cable is corroded at all you will have it apply and not be able to disable it. Becomes a real pain to get to once it has locked up. Can't get the rotors off to access the hardware because the brakes are applied... You then end up having to cut the cable and hope the brake releases...

I have heard more than once if you don't consistently use the parking brake do not use it at all on any car where the Ebrake is a cable driven brake separate from your main brakes.

Had a monte carlo I was riding in have the cable seize up on it... Not something you want to have happen in the winter... Although it is a little easier to climb under an avalanche than a monte carlo in the snow...

I have disconnected the E-Brake on my truck. When I priced the parts it was more expensive than having it in working condition was worth.

Rodney

Click to expand...

That is exactly why it is called a parking brake but can be used as an emergency brake. It needs to be set every time you PARK the rig and then it stays usable. When the corrosion builds up in the sheath for the cable and the linkages get to just sit then they rust/freeze up and cause a problem when it is actually used.

raiderron said:

That is exactly why it is called a parking brake but can be used as an emergency brake. It needs to be set every time you PARK the rig and then it stays usable. When the corrosion builds up in the sheath for the cable and the linkages get to just sit then they rust/freeze up and cause a problem when it is actually used.

Click to expand...

And if you do use the parking brake regularly on our vehicles you will still suffer problems:  1) p-brake handle cable snapping  2) parking brake going to the floor every 50k miles or so...  or not holding on incline requiring service.  You just can't win 

   

One thing to mention is that some states require a parking brake to work during annual state equipment inspections. One reason I always keep mine in working condition even if I don't use them all the time.

marzahld it is still better to use it than not use it. Do the maintenance as required and it is better that way. Having to adjust every 50k or so is no big deal.

Unless you have state inspections I wouldn't worry about it much. Just never ignore your brakes otherwise. Your normal brakes are designed that you should not lose more than half your brakes at a time. And if you have an issue with your brakes don't drive it.

They call it an emergency brake but in reality if you tried to use it to stop from highway speeds you are better off downshifting. The emergency brake is so small it won't do much for you. Even as a parking brake it is going to be under sized. Not sure why GM even bothered with this thing. Other vehicles have much better setups. Also never under stood why the emergency/parking brake is on the rear brakes when they are only designed to do 40% of the braking at most. Almost better throwing an anchor out your window...

Rodney

If you want to call it an emergency brake then think of it as a way to HELP stop you in an emergency. If you have total brake loss you can slow yourself down with it. You can also downshift or slam the trans in park. All out brake loss is bad but to have an instantaneous application of a brake system that locks everything is also typically dangerous. It is meant to help not be an "instead of." If used as it is designed as a parking brake, then you have the engine shut off and trans in park or if manual trans then in 1st gear and hopefully have the tires turned correctly for whatever road/street/curb spot you are on and the park brake is designed to help HOLD it there or to stop a ROLL from a dead stop. Heck you can put a small rock in front of a wheel/tire and do that.

Keeping the system adjusted and in good working order is still better than having it not work. All of you that think it is just a crap system need to become engineers and design a better mouse trap or at least try to make the existing one work as designed. 

well... I use mine every time I park.  That may be causing more wear on the system in my truck.  Maybe it would be better to just use it a few times a month?  lol

I have gotten in the habit of not using mine in the  winter months due to the truck freezing up once and my Jeep freezing up once.

marzahld said:

well... I use mine every time I park.  That may be causing more wear on the system in my truck.  Maybe it would be better to just use it a few times a month?  lol

Click to expand...

The wear would be mainly in the cables and mechanical mechanisms that work with the system. Theoretically if you use when not moving, parked, and never have to apply it in an emergency when the other brakes fail and never adjusted wrong so that they drag, then the shoes should last the life of the vehicle. They would have nothing rubbing them in those instances. It's the damn cable routing that gets the labor up there if paying for it and the assembly under the dash that gets pricey.

wyotonka said:

I have gotten in the habit of not using mine in the  winter months due to the truck freezing up once and my Jeep freezing up once.

Click to expand...

I do the same thing for the same reason, except I only do it when it's been raining or snowing since it's the moisture that causes the freeze-up. I do try to set the parking brake fairly often so that things keep working as intended.

So like I said before.. Before you start messing with the Ebrake and the truck is new to you, better do a price check on how much the parts cost because you stand a better than 50% chance you will be replacing the cable assembly and possibly more if the previous owner never used it so it is good to be prepared for the cost before you mess with it.

And if you free it up.. Use it often or you will loose use of it quickly.

Trying to remember which vehicle I saw a different style on but it depended on the hydrolic system staying in tact. It tied into the normal hydrolic line and applied the brakes for parking. Probably would not work as an emergency brake but then again I seriously doubt you could use the brake as a reasonable e-brake on our trucks either. Parking brake maybe... Which is only an issue if the parking pin breaks or your transfer case goes into neutral for some reason.

Rodney

When I bought my used 2004 EXT back in 2012, I was prepared to replace or repair any and all worn parts in order to bring the truck up to the best possible condition.

One of the first items on my list was to make sure the brake system was in good shape.

I opted to replace all of the rotors and frictions, including the parking brake shoes since that system felt a little weak at the time.

My mechanic advised that I use the parking brake regularly in an effort to keep the system adjusted properly.

I never really thought about it until this thread, but since the majority of my parking is done on flat, level ground, I very seldom set the parking brake.

I do, however, set the parking brake before placing the truck in park if I am on any sort of incline or especially at the boat ramp.

I also set the parking brake if I am doing any sort of work on the truck where I need to make sure the truck does not move.

Other than that, it very seldom gets set.

Whenever I do set the parking brake, it has always worked as expected.

In my area of the country, road salt is hardly ever needed and certainly not to the extent many of the other members experience.

And since the truck never leaves the pavement and the only water underneath comes from rain or the car wash, I am certain that dirt and corrosion are not going to be a concern.

My point is, if your truck is subjected to salt, heavy dirt or other adverse conditions, then extra measures may be advisable, but if not, the system will probably be fine will little or no extra attention.

Just my thoughts on the matter.