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Exhaust Manifold Issue

james21

james21

Cruise Coord
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So earlier this summer, prior to going to Michigan for the Heritage Cntr cruise, I stopped by a mechanic that a friend recommended to me, and found out that I had a manifold leak. I asked if it was serious enough that it needed to be taken care of immediately, the guy said no, but it should be addressed sooner rather than later. So fast forward to today (which happens to be later, unfortunately) I took my AV to a friend for an alignment and other work. On my way there, I kept smelling fumes inside the cab that smelled like exhaust, so I kept turning the heat off and opening the windows and it cleared up and I just shrugged it off as someone else. Driving home, I noticed it more, and didn't have anyone around me. I now realize that the exhaust is making its way into the cab.

So first, I know there is a health hazard there, so I don't want to drive too far with the windows up. Second, How bad of a problem do I have potentially? And how much $$$ and down time am I looking at?

I'm planning a little trip in the next couple weeks, I imagine its going to be cooler and I will want to run the heat with the windows up, but I also don't feel like nodding off and drifting into oncoming traffic :E: Any help is appreciated.
 
Is it a broken bolt causing the leak. ?
 
Well first you have to inspect for where it is coming from exactly and go from there. Likely at the back side since is coming in before air turbulence under the hood can blow the gas away. Broken manifold bolt like MS03 2500 said? Cracked? No idea on cost or difficulty till the source is located.
 
I believe he said it was al bolt
 
james21 said:
I believe he said it was al bolt
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Ok, that was not in the original post, just a diagnosis of an exhaust leak. Hence mine and MS03 2500 questions. Location of the broken bolt, if in fact is broken, will make a difference on how hard to remove that bolt once the manifold is off. Cost can be effected by whether it is a bolt or a cracked manifold or both. 
 
Common problem with GM using sub-par materials. My TBSS has 3 cracked exhaust manifold bolts at 53K. Guy at work Silverado Denali, same thing.
 
As someone who survived a carbon monoxide poisoning event from a leaking exhaust header I would encourage you to please get the thing fixed ASAP.

I had a pounding headache for almost a week and was nauseous for a couple of days.  If you are transporting children you should also be aware that kids are a lot more susceptible to CO poisoning than adults.

Your note about nodding off is a tell-tale of CO poisoning.  

Please get it checked out and fix it or don't drive it.  It's just not worth your life.
 
Depending on shop rate, i have a quote right in front of me for pulling the manifold, replacing the gasket and bolts. total plus tax is about 250 bucks. Thats dealer price. Thats mani gasket, 6 bolts and the exhaust seal. Price may vary a little depending on if its the left side or the right side. This quote is for the left side. The right side will also be more expensive if you have an EGR.
 
krazycarguy said:
Depending on shop rate, i have a quote right in front of me for pulling the manifold, replacing the gasket and bolts. total plus tax is about 250 bucks. Thats dealer price. Thats mani gasket, 6 bolts and the exhaust seal. Price may vary a little depending on if its the left side or the right side. This quote is for the left side. The right side will also be more expensive if you have an EGR.
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^ that's the exact amount I paid for the passenger side, and the same price I was quoted for the drivers side. $250 @ dealership with new bolts and gaskets.
 
If you want to do it yourself and you have a broken bolt and have access to a welder another forum I am on they used stainless steel welding rod to weld a nut to the broken bolt. The Stainless Steel apparently won't stick to the cast iron easily but will to the bolt. Then it is a simple matter of just backing out the bolt...

But I don't have access to a welder or know how to use one so I haven't tried this nor have I had a broken header bolt but just sharing information.

Rodney
 
do you have iron head? most are aluminum, in which case no special welding wire is needed. Just put on an oversize nut, weld it to the stud, and spin it off. Thats what we do here all the time. Just a heads up, the first nut for whatever reason almost never sticks. So youll need more than one nut.
 
Oh I guess I was under the impression that our trucks are all iron blocks and heads...

The LSX design but cast iron...

You mean I have an Aluminum block and heads on my '03 5.3?

Learn something new every day...

Rodney
 
Is the broken bolt or bolts at the corner, I'm assuming it is in the rear somewhere for you to be getting exhaust fumes in the cab.
I'm probably going to catch a lot of flak for this one but have you considered this option ........

http://www.kralautoparts.com/parts.html

Even if only as a temporary solution?
I've seen a lot of good reviews about this one and if I were in your position, considering the urgency, I would get it just to hold down the fort until I can have the broken bolts extracted properly.
 
Its not a bad idea, as that is the bolt that usually breaks, however, I dont thing you would be able to bolt it to the head without removing it. There isnt enough room to get a wrench, much less the bolts back there.
 
The driver's front and passenger rear are pretty easy as the bolt holes required are in the side of the engine block.
the driver's rear however would definitely be a PITA to address. The passenger front should also be easy since it is the front of the block as well.



 
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