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Fuel pump or not?

jimmie jam

Full Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
90
Location
fort lauderdale, fl
Well, 2003 Z66 with 20,000 miles (yes, 20k). Purchased new in 03 rarely driven. About six weeks ago I went to drive it and it would not start, just cranked. Let it sit and went back and it started right up. Drive 7 miles, parked for 20 min. and leave (no issues). Five min. later stalls in road. Flat bedded home and put in garage. Next day starts right up. Thought that it might be the fuel pump relay so I spent the $12 and replaced it. Did not drive it but would go out and start it 2-3 times a day, no issues. Fast forward to last Sunday...going to take it to Miami for some exercise. Starts right up, pull out of the garage and let it sit running for a few min. before I leave - stalls. It just cranks but won't start. Let it sit for 5 min. and it starts right up. Needless to say it goes right back in the garage. So, I'm guessing that it's the fuel pump. Is there anything else that would cause this? Just 20K on it...looks and smells new. Dealer wants $850+- to replace. I could do it as I have a lift in the garage but do I want to mess with it (has a full tank of gas). What say you all? Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Is the gas fresh gas? or has I been sitting in tank for months or years etc? How about your battery? with so few miles has it been kept on a battery tender/charger? Sometimes sitting can be hard on a vehicle and things get gummed up like the injectors.
 
Well I would just test the fuel pressure and you may want to look and see if you have a external fuel filter.
 
Vaeagleav said:
Is the gas fresh gas? or has I been sitting in tank for months or years etc? How about your battery? with so few miles has it been kept on a battery tender/charger? Sometimes sitting can be hard on a vehicle and things get gummed up like the injectors.

The gas is kept fresh just gets driven infrequently. Battery was replaced 5/08 and again last month but is always kept on a tender. Runs fine gets 16-18 city and 21+ hwy if kept under 70.
 
MS03 2500 said:
Well I would just test the fuel pressure and you may want to look and see if you have a external fuel filter.

I'll have to get a tester. Yes it does have an external fuel filter and I'll change that next although I don't think that's the issue because the "typical" sign is loss of power and/or poor mileage.
 
Go simple first.......Check for a bad gas cap or another component with a blocked vent to the gas tank....if so the problem with occur sooner with a full tank than an empty tank as a vacuum is drawn quicker on the system.... Next time it stalls, loosen the gas cap and see if you hear air hissing for a second and after that it restarts immediately, if so go with a new gas cap first.
 
Thomcat said:
Go simple first.......Check for a bad gas cap or another component with a blocked vent to the gas tank....if so the problem with occur sooner with a full tank than an empty tank as a vacuum is drawn quicker on the system.... Next time it stalls, loosen the gas cap and see if you hear air hissing for a second and after that it restarts immediately, if so go with a new gas cap first.

Thanks, I'll check that out.
 
I been trying to find a good way of answering this, because I don't what to cause stuff, just how many times did you turn it on and off and not start it. ?
 
MS03 2500 said:
I been trying to find a good way of answering this, because I don't what to cause stuff, just how many times did you turn it on and off and not start it. ?

Numerous times. One time 5 another time 3, etc., etc.. The fuel pump is not turning on (or at least I'm not hearing it). I'm just trying to figure out if it is another issue before I spend the money and effort to put a new fuel pump in....
 
I don't think you broke anything.

Here is how the system works, when you turn the ignition on the BCM runs a test of the EBCM after 5 seconds to give me time to start the engine.  The EBCM only has power with the engine running, so it sets a information-only DTC(code) if it sees the code a couple of times it will turn on the Service system message.

Now when I was working on a problem I got the code C0291 because I did not start the truck(no warning message)

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MS03 2500 said:
I don't think you broke anything.

Here is how the system works, when you turn the ignition on the BCM runs a test of the EBCM after 5 seconds to give me time to start the engine.  The EBCM only has power with the engine running, so it sets a information-only DTC(code) if it sees the code a couple of times it will turn on the Service system message.

Now when I was working on a problem I got the code C0291 because I did not start the truck(no warning message)

I was in the garage 30 min. ago and tried again. I think that I hear the pump - sounds like a light humming noise that I hear around the top of the headliner where there is a nickle sized "grill" -most likely the vent fan motor though.
 
Nope there a fan behind the grille, that is a inside the cab temperature sensor
 
MS03 2500 said:
Nope there a fan behind the grille, that is a inside the cab temperature sensor
That's what I thought...this is looking more and more like it's just the fuel pump. I need to get a gauge to check the fuel pressure, hope that they're not too pricey.
 
jimmie jam said:
I was in the garage 30 min. ago and tried again. I think that I hear the pump - sounds like a light humming noise that I hear around the top of the headliner where there is a nickle sized "grill" -most likely the vent fan motor though.


Your not going to hear the pump up in the headliner..

Open you door and listen down under your AV toward the rear, under the passanger door. That's where the tank is and the pump is in the tank. If you hear nothing coming from that area it is most likely your fuel pump.
 
jimmie jam said:
... hope that they're not too pricey.

You might want to sit down.
 
EXT4ME said:
You might want to sit down.

I know that the pump is about $225.....just the labor that is all over the map. I have a lift but also have 31 gallons of gas in the tank which is the only thing from stopping me from attempting it at home myself.
 
I know you posted the gas tank is full, but have you thought about cutting a hole in the floor to access the pump.
 
jimmie jam said:
I know that the pump is about $225.....just the labor that is all over the map. I have a lift but also have 31 gallons of gas in the tank which is the only thing from stopping me from attempting it at home myself.


The dealer will have to charge for removal if the gas as well as installation of the pump....Chrysler charged me $400 in labor for the pump on my 300M, but it was better than giving it to the burn center.
 
MS03 2500 said:
I know you posted the gas tank is full, but have you thought about cutting a hole in the floor to access the pump.

This is a 20,000 mile garage queen vehicle that I purchased new. It has not even been driven in the rain. Would not even think about chopping a hole in it.
 
Thomcat said:
The dealer will have to charge for removal if the gas as well as installation of the pump....Chrysler charged me $400 in labor for the pump on my 300M, but it was better than giving it to the burn center.

Not considering the stealer, I mean dealer. The shop that has been working on my Corvettes for 35 years will get the nod if I don't do it myself. The dealer charges the "book rate" of about 4.1 hours and the tech will spend less than 2 to do it. My guy will charge the actual time @ a rate about $50hr less then Chevy. 
 
I'd make sure to get that less than 2 hrs commitment in writing or a flat rate quote.........should take 30 mins just to drain the gas (provided they have a clean 30 gal safety vessel and not just a bunch of gas cans) and later refill the tank..if you try to remove a full tank, that's 8.3 lbs/gal x 30 gal in gas + 10 lbs for the tank =259 lbs........safely. Must be a great garage if they can lift the vehicle, disconnect all the feed, return, evap lines, drop the tank without breaking any hardware, reinstall a new pump and gasket, re-install tank, lines, bleed and test system in less than the balance of 90 minutes......and if the new part somehow screws up, be willing to eat the extra time and reinstall an operable one.

When the dealer was working on my 300M, it was chock full of gas because the gas sending unit on the pump was what had broken......probably didn't do math to judge the weight and wanted to save the drain time,  they had a massive gas spill trying to remove it without draining the gas first and had to evacuate the service bays for a few hours until they cleaned it up, called the fire department and then aired the place out......could have cared less because they provided the use of a free loaner in the interim and, if the 300M blew up, I'd just walk next door and roll out with a new one and let them play with the insurance company ........still payed only the book labor hours. Sure it costs more but you're really not paying the extra bucks for the repair, but for the reputation/good will of the dealer and their having the ability to instantly make good when the fit hits the shans.

 
Thomcat said:
I'd make sure to get that less than 2 hrs commitment in writing or a flat rate quote.../quote]

Listen, I'm not expecting a bill for 2 hours of labor. I will gladly pay for 4 hours of labor if that's what it actually takes. Remember the shops rate is $55hr less than the dealer and I will pay full list for the pump @ Chevy.
 
Cool let us know what they charge ya.
 
jimmie jam said:
I was in the garage 30 min. ago and tried again. I think that I hear the pump - sounds like a light humming noise that I hear around the top of the headliner where there is a nickle sized "grill" -most likely the vent fan motor though.

Everyone including me thinks it is the pump. However as Randy said, go back and test to hear the pump again. The way I read this post, you were not certain what your were listening for when you tried this test and mistook the in cab temp sensor for the pump. I didn't see a post where you did that test again as Randy suggested and definitively determined it was the pump

Go back out and open the left rear passenger door, turn the key to the ignition position and listen for the pump whine back there . If you hear it, then start the truck.
Also since your problem is intermittent, You may hear it and it will start so wait until it stalls and cannot start and test then.
 
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