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2004 1500 Z71 Rear Axle Replacement

lttlbddy

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Messages
2
Sorry if this is a repeat but I wasn't finding it in my search attempts.

I need to replace the rear driver's side axle shaft and I have not worked on a Chevy rear end before.

What's the procedure to get the broken splines out of the diff?

Are these axles held in by a c-clip? Something else?

If I can get the good axle out, can I punch the broken stub out from that side?

TIA

Steve
 
You might want to upgrade differential since you will be in there as it is weak link...

but yes to C clip.
getting broken parts out try magnet.
YOu should have a G80 locker rear end so you will need to take that out and check for broken bits of spline as that could eb catastrophic.
 
:welcome: to the club lttlbddy. ygmn is right. Might be time for an upgrade because if you got bits of splines from the end of the axle floating around in there, I assume you have the cover off right now, then those little bits may have done other damage. The actual axle removal is pretty straight forward. Did the axle break at the spline area or just spin some splines and the axle is still in one piece?
 
The break seems to be out board of the splines, all gears teeth appear to be just fine.  Any "chunks" are outside of the inner seal.

For what I use this truck for, the G80 works well.

I need to get the truck running within the next few days, so no time for an upgrade at this point anyway.

I'll get in there with a good light and take a better look tonight though.

What sucks is the truck is stranded at my work instead of at home with all of my tools.  I have relocated my floor jack and air tools for the duration of the project but not having my tool chest is a major inconvenience.

Does anyone have a good blow up diagram of the rear axle housing?

Thanks!
 
Here is something that might help.

Since you have the rear diff cover off you can see the 3/4" dia. cross pin that is held in place by a threaded, usually 5/16" head, retaining bolt that when is removed allows you to remove the cross pin. If you remove the retaining bolt and it is broken at the bottom of the threads, should have a smooth shoulder rest of bolt at the end of the threads, then stop right there and get the threaded part back in and take to a shop for the rest of the repair. I have removed several after the bolt is broken but it takes some luck and the right tools and holding your tongue just right. If the entire bolt comes out you can reach around to the other side and push the cross pin out toward you. From now on do not spin anything or the spider gears can fall out. When the cross pin is out push the axle at the end, after you remove what ChevFox03 said, and when you push it in you will see a "C" clip at the end of the axle inside the housing and should fall off and allow you to slide the axle out. Again, do not spin anything! Use the end of the axle to pry out the seal and now you are at the bearing. You will need a slide hammer with a hook or 2 fingers to get on the back side of bearing to slide hammer out. Check the axle for wear where the bearing rides on it. Pitting or gaulding is bad. If not sure a tech at a shop should be able to look and advise. May need new axle. Now you can get a new bearing and seal assembly that is slightly offset where the seal rides on the axle, if you reuse the  same axle, that repositions the seal where it rides on the axle. There is likely a small rubbed groove where the old seal rode on the original axle. If get new axle can still get the offset seal kit or just the stock bearing and seal. You also want to be sure the old bearing doesn't just slide right out real easy during removal. If so then you either bite the bullet for a different axle and lots of money or you can use a chisel and get in there and scribe some knurls in the tube all around where the bearing is pressed in and that will give it a tight fit and then reverse the  rest of the removal procedure and refill the rear diff. When you reinstall the bearing and seal make sure you use a seal/bearing install tool to drive straight in. Using a flat punch and hammer in a circle is not recommended. Probably a video on here someplace about all this.
 
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