Oddball Request: lifting an enclosed trailer- options/shops

Hey guys, I did a search and didn't come up with anything relevant. I know it's not a usual request.

I've got a 6x12 enclosed trailer that I've converted to a covert camper. I want to haul it with my Avalanche which has a 6inch lift on it. On my stock height Ram, the trailer tilts up in the front fairly noticeably. I know it'll just be worse on the Avalanche and I don't like the feel of towing it with the 6" drop hitch I got. It feels like the back end connection to the truck is loose and dipping down everytime I slowly apply the brakes. Checked it 100 times and it's solid, I think it's just a geometry issue with the two different heights. Also I'd like the added ground clearance for better approach/departure angles and ruts etc.

I'd like to raise the trailer and put a set of taller/wider tires on it to compensate. I don't load it down with cargo, and all the weight is at the bottom/floor of it. I've heard of people flipping the springs so they're above the axle instead of below, lift blocks etc.

I'm looking for a NJ shop closest to central NJ that would work on something like this because it's just beyond my customization abilities. Anyone have any ideas of what shops, trailer shops, etc would be able to do the raising work for me? 

I lifted a small trailer for a similer reason. Mine had a  spring under axel suspension stock so I just moved the axel down under the spring. If yours is the same I would try that first. If it is not enough you could always ad blocks to get more lift.

Changing the spring location is the easiest way and you can also get a little longer shackle plate but if you do that it is advised to increase the shackle thickness as well. Make sure you get new thick u-bolts for reattaching to the axle. I used to work at a shop where we made our own u-bolts. Also get new nuts and washers. When you do the flip the stress is greater on the u-bolts so new is advised and even a bigger diameter and drill out the attaching plate holes for the bigger diameter. You said you were going with bigger/taller tires so again, the stress is greater.

While I am fairly mechanically enclined, I dont have any experience with suspension work. If the trailer is lifted up on jack stands, will the springs have any compression left to them when taking them off to flip the location? What complications/difficulties might one run accross when doing this flip for the first time?

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=flipping+trailer+axles

  So looking underneath the trailer yesterday, a thought crossed my mind that I had to ask the question if this is feasible/recommended etc...

(I'm attaching three pictures, please let me know if they don't go through for whatever reason)

If you look, where the axle meets the wheel there's an arm that is angled up and the spring bracket is on the bottom of the axle.  Would I be able to flip the axle around, so the arm faces down (about 4" lift) and then the spring bracket would be on the top of the axle right where I'd need it to put the springs on top? (another 3" or so). 


I've heard some axles are slightly curved to allow flex when a load is put on it, and flipping it the other way wasn't recommended if you have the curved axle...

Regardless I would want to add a pair of heavy duty wheel spacers, and larger/wider truck wheels to the sides to help remedy the raised center of gravity. With the setup on there now, would I just look for a set of rims/spacers that has the same bolt pattern? Or is there a unique way you have to do it being that it's not a vehicle axle setup?

I don't like the feel of the drop hitch at all, and I need the trailer up an absolute minimum of 6" but i don't want to lose the ability to take 55-65 mph on the parkway. I don't load anything heavy into it at all, it's a light camper setup inside, so all the weight is on the bottom 2ft.

thanks for all your advice!

Not recommended to turn the axle as you asked. There is a slight curve to the axle, as you said, to allow for any weight added to a loaded trailer. If you did this you would also have to cut off and reweld the spring perches. If you do the spring swap and longer shackles, maybe even add another spring in the pack, then you will still likely have to do a drop hitch but not as severe as now. With the larger tires your stability would still remain intact and the drop hitch would not give you the feeling you are trying to get away from.

That's a dropped axle, maybe try finding a straight axle.

Where do I look to find places that would do this sort of work? I've asked around at custom shops locally for the hell of it, and every single one said they won't touch trailers. I asked a few trailer shops that I've found online and they just sell but don't repair...

I do like the straight axle idea, that might give me enough of a lift to not get that odd feeling from the drop hitch. Where do you recommend looking for replacement axles?

So I should be looking for something like these?

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=AX-S-LRA&parts=Trailer+Axle+Galvanized+1800+-+2700+Lbs&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=

They sell trailer axles at tractor supply. The loose feeling you are getting from the drop hitch is probably just the hitch moving around in the hitch box. This problem could be easly solved with a hitch stabilzer. It is basicaly a clamp you put on the hitch to keep it from moving around in the hitch box. Just a thought. About $20.

that's what i thought at first AV 2500, so I did put a clamp on it and it's actually the center of gravity being off between the vehicle and trailer... when breaking even gently, I can feel the tip of the trailer pushing the rear end down being that it's 6-7" lower... When the two were an even height, the weight transferred from the braking went more into the frame so it didn't dip the rear end.  But that way the trailer rides really high in the front and low in the rear

I'll check out tractor supply for the axle, what size do you recommend for a single axle 6x12 trailer outfitted like an economy RV? (I saw 1500, 2500, 3000 etc)

Do you have a U-Hall service near maybe able to refer you? I tried searching in your area I feel your pain. I have several friends that build trailers or have fab shops.
Try Craigslist might be a small shop near you ask for references. The place where you purchase an axle should be able to help you on what size you need. There are several variables to take into consideration.
You don?t have trip planed to Oregon? 

JVZL1 said:

Do you have a U-Hall service near maybe able to refer you? I tried searching in your area I feel your pain. I have several friends that build trailers or have fab shops.
Try Craigslist might be a small shop near you ask for references. The place where you purchase an axle should be able to help you on what size you need. There are several variables to take into consideration.
You don?t have trip planed to Oregon? 

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JVZL1-Yep, if he has a trip planned to Oregon I can recommend a top notch shop to fix him up with here in Eugene. I used to run that shop and they know what they are doing. Thundertek2002 get in touch with me if you want their info or JVZL1 may know the same shop or a great one in his area?

As far as what axel ratting you need to at least put back in what it originally had. That info should be on the stock axel some where. Probably on a sticker that fell off at some point. My guess for a 6x12 inclosed is probably somewhere around the 3000 to 3500 pound axel area.

Thanks guys, I do have a u-haul place near by me that I can call and ask where they get their trailers serviced at. The more I look at it underneath the more I think I can actually do the axle swap myself with a friend.

Main questions is, if I lift up the trailer and put it on jack stands, is there still going to be tension on the leaf springs? Or does it release any tension once there's no weight on it anymore? I just want to know before I undo a leaf spring bolt and POW a leaf springs out and removes a finger...

Because the axle is bolted to the top of the spring pack, when you lift it at all four corners and all tires off the ground, the springs will be at maximum slack. The only thing on them at that point is the axle and tires. There will be no unsprung tension to worry about but watch the fingers because that hurts like the dickens when you least expect it. You literally can remove wheels/tires and then support with other jack stands and unbolt the spring eyes at the shackles and there you go.

Get some 2" lift blocks, new u-bolts 2" longer with washers and lock nuts. Lift the trailer off the ground with about 3" of clearance between the tire and ground. Unbolt one side only and loosen the other side almost all the way off keep a jack under the axle. Lower that side  till you can get the block in, install new u bolts and tighten but not all the way. Then do the other side.  Now tighten down u-bolts.  Lower trailer onto the ground, get torque specs of the new u bolts and torque down. Drive around the block and re tighten again.
Do not flip the axle last axles have a slight camber set to help with trailer tracking and sway.