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MaxJax Two Post Lift

JohnnieMo

JohnnieMo

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PM 2014
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Calgary, Alberta
Has anyone every tried lifting an Av with one of these Dannmar MaxJax lifts?

They are rated at 6000lbs, so right at the limit for an Av.  I'd love one of these after my last brake job nuisance.  And Costco is selling them shipped to my door for $2000.

http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/two-post-lifts/maxjax.asp

 

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Your so close to the dry weight of the 1500
( Curb weight (lb / kg):2WD: 5478 / 2485 4WD: 5645 / 2560)
 
The scuttlebutt on the net is that the whole thing is vastly under-rated. But I don't want to find out the hard way.
 
OK why is the picture with a 3,000 lb jeep. Will it lift your AV yes  would I get under it hell no.
 
I'm sure there's some margin designed into it above it's rating.
 
Safety MArgins are there for a reason...

Find a larger one IMHO...

You never want to be on the edge.
 
Something else to consider is how thick is the concrete you're planning on mounting it to.

Nevermind the first comment. If it isn't bolted to the floor, my butt isn't getting under it.
 
Each side is bolted to the floor with 5 bolts. 5" mandatory thickness on the concrete.

Doesn't sound like anyone has actually used one.

My garage is only 8' so I couldn't get it much higher than to do a wheel swap on my av. However it would be quite nice for the other toys.
 
Think of a lift like a winch...you get a minimum of a 9000 pound winch on a 3000 pound Jeep...Why?  I'd hate for anyone to find out the hard way. 
 
I've seen too many times in my engineering career where safety margins get stacked up and pretty soon you end up with some WAY over engineered items.  If it's rated at 6000 pounds and my truck is at 5999 and it appears to be in proper working order and properly installed then I'd work under it.

Comparing to a winch for off-road recovery is apples to oranges.
 
In my research I found a guy who called the company. They reported that it was tested to 7000lbs. It is technically rated even higher, just as you said, for safety margins.

The most critical element is the floor bolts. It is 445% as strong as it needs to be. However getting those floor anchors done properly is critical. Also your slab needs to be 5". I checked mine and it is 7". However I have no proof if it is uniform. I only checked the "low" corner. I think I may have to drill a hole to be sure.

Not something I'll be buying tomorrow unfortunately but maybe down the road.

 
  The outer edges of your slab should be thicker than the rest of it...unless you had it spec'd to a specific thickness when it was poured.  Another option, just to be safe, is to measure and cut the concrete where you want to mount the lift, and pour high-strength concrete to depth (I'd go with 2'x2' and 3' deep).  Overkill?  I'm not a structural engineer, but you're going to be paying for a certain amount of concrete, whether you use it or not, so you might as well put it down the hole.  A load of concrete will run you around $300 or so depending on your area.
 
ms38w said:
  The outer edges of your slab should be thicker than the rest of it...unless you had it spec'd to a specific thickness when it was poured.  Another option, just to be safe, is to measure and cut the concrete where you want to mount the lift, and pour high-strength concrete to depth (I'd go with 2'x2' and 3' deep).  Overkill?  I'm not a structural engineer, but you're going to be paying for a certain amount of concrete, whether you use it or not, so you might as well put it down the hole.  A load of concrete will run you around $300 or so depending on your area.
Click to expand...
That is the right way to do it.  X2
 
JohnnieMo said:
Each side is bolted to the floor with 5 bolts. 5" mandatory thickness on the concrete.

Doesn't sound like anyone has actually used one.

My garage is only 8' so I couldn't get it much higher than to do a wheel swap on my av. However it would be quite nice for the other toys.
Click to expand...
The pix are deceiving then. I didn't read the whole add. So how do you install it? Put the anchors in and then wheel it in place, bolt it down when you need it, unbolt it and then put it out of the way?
 
ohiobellboy said:
The pix are deceiving then. I didn't read the whole add. So how do you install it? Put the anchors in and then wheel it in place, bolt it down when you need it, unbolt it and then put it out of the way?
Click to expand...

Yes, you place permanent floor anchors in the concrete then wheel the lifts into place. They fasten down with 5 bolts each. Then the hydraulic pump is plugged in to each lift and up you go! It's really not different than any other two post lift except that the posts have wheels and can be moved around your shop with ease.
 
So what you're really saying is a guy could set this up to work on the driveway in front of the garage and wheel it in when you arent using it  >:D even have another spot in the garage for it to bolt down ??
 
That's a steel!  Most lifts have mechanical stops also.  If you are within spec you will be fine.  How many attorneys do you think signed off on that thing.  I'll bet at least 2.  One in house and the other from their insurer.  They probably also consulted an independent engineering firm on the design/safety.
 
wyotonka said:
So what you're really saying is a guy could set this up to work on the driveway in front of the garage and wheel it in when you arent using it  >:D even have another spot in the garage for it to bolt down ??
Click to expand...

Yes. Just like this guy:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g_qHYTGVezY

Basically what I've learned is that if you buy a lift made in USA you are okay. Made in China and you could die. These dannmar lifts are USA. You may want to pour custom footings though.
 
I'm starting to look at this MaxJax again.  There is some precedent out there for people lifting Avalanches.

I'm looking at a few new garage designs.  Some have room for a 4 post lift, while one is pretty cramped.  Depending on how much money I want to spend, this MaxJax could still be in my future.
 
Here is another interesting option:

http://liftking.ca/index.php?page=lk-p-6000-single-post

port%20single2.jpg


port%20single1.jpg




 
ms38w said:
  The outer edges of your slab should be thicker than the rest of it...unless you had it spec'd to a specific thickness when it was poured.  Another option, just to be safe, is to measure and cut the concrete where you want to mount the lift, and pour high-strength concrete to depth (I'd go with 2'x2' and 3' deep).  Overkill?  I'm not a structural engineer, but you're going to be paying for a certain amount of concrete, whether you use it or not, so you might as well put it down the hole.  A load of concrete will run you around $300 or so depending on your area.
Click to expand...




I would also assume that rebar would have to be tied in for max strength. I have never seen it done but I would assume there is a way to install with the existing rebar that was cut thru for this new concrete.
 
If I went with a MaxJax, I would be cutting new "footings" for the columns.  I need to re-surface my garage floor anyways, so it doesn't take much effort to slice out a couple spots and then re-fill with proper depth and reinforcement.  You can also install the anchors right in the fresh concrete.

This only matters if I decide to keep the existing garage and fix it up.  The other option is to get rid of it and build a new garage for a 4 post lift.  Have to mull it over the holidays.
 
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