echastain88 said:
Hey all! New Avy owner here and one of the first orders of business is to replace the busted factory speakers.
I have an 02 Z71 with on star. I've already purchased my components for the fronts, the infinity Primus PR6500cs http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P6500CS/Infinity-Primus-PR6500cs.html#details-tab and im trying to figure out 1) what to get for the rears to match them and 2) What head unit to eventually upgrade to, to power these.
Should i just get another pair of those to put in the rear doors?
Another thing to keep in mind, i may down the road, and in a sub in the back.
Also, would it be benificial to run some bigger speaker wire while i am doing all of this?
Thanks everyone!
Not sure who Bueller is but I think I can help.
The answers to all your questions is that it depends.
Personally I wouldn't power any component set (including the one you purchased) off of the factory or an aftermarket head unit alone. Reason being is that set you linked is capable of handling 80 watts RMS each and 160 watts max. You'll be lucky if an aftermarket HU can provide 30 watts RMS at 50x4 max. You wouldn't get anywhere near what those speakers are capable and in my opinion they would be underpowered. A 300w 2 channel at 4 ohms would be ideal. Keep in mind your rear speakers don't do much of anything for the front stage which is where you sit. They are merely "filler". A properly powered component set imaged properly with a subwoofer is plenty for most people as far as volume and sound quality goes and door speakers aren't even really necessary.
If you want to run a good component set the simple answer is you need an amplifier to power them. If you're not willing to run amps than simple two way speakers are ideal. Don't expect bass out of anything other than a subwoofer. Components provide mid's and hi's only and are generally installed after subwoofers. Components are very sensitive, they get super loud, and provide strong highs. If you were to install that set and get decent power to them your ears will be missing a subwoofer instantly. Once you know how your subwoofer setup is reacting you will have a better idea of where to go with components or if you even need them depnding on which route you choose.
I'm powering a 100w RMS 200 max component set with a 400w 2 ch. in q-logic kick panels with 5.25's in the doors powered by the HU. My 2 sealed tens (powered by 1000w) match this nicely I think. My subs came before the components.
It's kinda tough to give you an answer not knowing your goals and budget, but ultimately you want your amp ratings to match speaker handling ratings, if not you may be disappointed with their performance and underpowering a speaker is worse than slightly overpowering it.
Let's say you really want to run that component set you got and build further later on.
-You could run what you purchased off of a 2 channel installing them in the factory location with a dedicated monblock amp for a sub later on.
-You could run that set off of a 4 channel, use the other two channels to power a rear set or bridge to a sub later on.
-Could even do a 5 channel using two channels for what you got leaving options to expand rear door speakers AND a sub later on.
The HU you select will depend on what you want to send a signal to, how it looks, and it's features, not it's power. They all pretty much emit the same power across the board which is 50x4 max. Don't rely on a head unit to power much more than some cheap door speakers, and there's never a better time to run RCA's and amp signal than when you're installing a new HU and/or doing sound deadening. There's no point in spending extra on a HU with front, rear, and sub RCA's if you never intend to use them.
A moderately powered sub (especially ported) will drown out little H/U powered door speakers quickly. Really, to do it right the first time you need to plan around your ultimate end goal, budget more than initially thought, and match the power requirements of everything including the truck to get where you want. Tearing apart the truck multiple times sucks.
I've been working on my stereo bit by bit for several years. I spent months researching installs, selecting components, mapping out wiring, shopping for deals and comparing. I then began completing things in stages, running wires and cables for equipment I didn't have at the time, adding as funds allowed, growing the system, and finally going back in to fix things I should have done the first time. My next task is to install my HO alternator and swap out my 4AWG power wire for 1/0. Car stereo can get out hand quickly, and before you know it the vehicle charge system can't keep up with your demands.
The gauge of wire needed is dependent on the current desired and length of your runs.
lol