Adding amp to 2013 - found new route for power!

Look what I found under the carpet of my 2013. I just popped off the sill plate, and lifted up the carpet a little bit:



This is some sort of plastic cap that makes an excellent pass-through for an amp power wire on the 2013. I'm not sure it was there on my 2011. Just drill through, add a grommet, and you're in power:



Here's the view from under the truck; it is a very simple route from here to the battery positive terminal through the engine bay:



I ran the power power cable under the sills to the rear of the truck:



I have a cheap amp to power a single 10" back here. Greatly improves the factory Bose sound...

so that's outside the truck?  You run conduit 

I covered the power wire with the black corrugated heat shield for the whole run to the battery. I followed another run of wires that is protected inside some frame protrusions.

Here is my favorite part...



Fits in there really nice...

very nice dude!  I'll looking at adding a sub to my system too

Do it! I had never installed any amps until my 2011 - now this is my 4th amp/sub. I took a couple of pics of the install too, so maybe this will help.

Look at this pic of the LTZ cup holder removed; the top is the driver side, and the bottom is passenger (I have an ashtray in there because I am about to solder the wires). The black plug with the 4 wires on the passenger side is the harness to the sub. They are red, green, white/red-striped, and white/green-striped (you can see them on the ashtray). The factory sub has a dual voice coil - that is why there are 4 wires. These are sub signals, so if you need a signal for mids and highs - this is NOT for you. Notice I had already fished my silver speaker wire and sub level wire (looks like black phone cord) into the chamber from under the carpet. I just had to drill up through the change holder to mount the level knob.



Since my sub is single voice coil, I just tapped the green and red wires. Just strip, solder, and tape. I don't know which is + or -





I sent the speaker wire to a PAC SOEM-T LOC which not only converts the signal to RCAs for the amp, but also has a built in turn-on signal wire. This PAC SOEM T needs power to function (because of the turn-on signal), so I just wired it up to the amp's power. I picked this amp because it is #1 on Amazon with 4.5 stars, its cheap, and it has the remote level knob (cheap knob, but functional). It seems to match well with my kicker 10", but it is not near the 250 rms claimed. More like 125 - adequate for my 150 rms sub...

all looks good to me

After having it in a few weeks, I am no longer looking to upgrade the speakers. With the sub, the Bose system sounds much more powerful. I've never been a Bose fan, but supposedly they are "well placed" even if underpowered - the sub adds a physical presence of air pressure missing with the stock setup...