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Engine died after idling for 10 minutes, cranks, has fuel pressure, won't start

L

levistep

Full Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
14
Location
Connecticut
2005 Chevy Avalanche
200k miles
Codes: U0107, P0140 and P0140P


I had my Avalanche sitting for like 6 months and I barely even used it the last year. I had a hard time getting her to start (battery problems) so i finally switched over to a good battery and she started right up. I ran some seafoam through vacuum lines, gas, and oil since it had been sitting for so long. It idled for like 15 minutes and I drove it around for like 5 minutes.

I went to start the car today and it started right up (perhaps a very brief hesitation) and then it idled for 10 minutes and then died on me. There is fuel pressure of around 50-60 psi at the fuel rail and i'm pretty sure I can hear the fuel pump kicking on. The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over at all. I hooked up a spark plug tester between the spark plug and the wire and didn't get any spark while it was cranking.

You guys have helped me in the past and this is my first post after 3.5 years of lurking. Thanks in advance!

 
Are you sure about that last code you listed "P0140P"
 
MS03 2500 said:
Are you sure about that last code you listed "P0140P"
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Pretty sure. It's P0140 pending, whatever that means. I didn't get how i could have the code and then the same code again but pending.
 
Well the P0140 is 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2) I would look into that first.



 
My friend came over to troubleshoot and the car started up right away. We left my driveway and went for a test drive down the road and after driving for a little less than a half mile the engine stalled immediately and we came to a stop and couldn't start again. Like before, the engine would just crank and not even try to turn over. He brought his control module reader and we observed all sorts of information. It did not appear that the crank angle sensor was having any errors and fuel delivery does not seem to be an issue either. The engine didn't sputter or anything, it just died immediately which makes me think something that controls spark is telling it not to run.

I didn't mention in the first post, but I have some airbag codes, and service stability, but I don't see how those would be related.
 
Plugged CAT?
 
ygmn said:
Plugged CAT?
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I'll check that, but wouldn't a plugged cat be more intermittent? It either starts immediately or doesn't turn over at all and just cranks and then it just dies instantly out of nowhere.
 
What's your RPM when at idle? Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe if you were to have a bad magnet in your crankshaft position sensor you would be unable to start the AV period. Even though you're getting pressure at the rail you could be looking at a failing pump. I had the same problem, but after replacing the pump and filter I was back in business. I replaced my position sensor for good measure, it was cheap enough. As far as the cat goes, I would think you would hear a God awful rattling noise coming from it if it were bad.
 
Clear the codes and crank the engine for 15 seconds and rescan for codes. Did any come back? any new ones?


The battery problem could have caused the U0107.

U0107

Lost Communication with Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module

   ?  DTC U0107 sets if the battery voltage is low. If the customer concern is slow cranking or no crank because battery voltage is low, ignore DTC U0107. Clear any DTCs from memory that may have set from the low battery voltage condition.

   ?  DTC U0107 sets when there is a short to B+ on the TAC module ground circuit. Inspect the fuses for the circuits that are in the TAC module harness, i.e. cruise, brake. An inspection of the fuses may lead you to the circuit that is shorted to the TAC module ground circuit.

   ?  DTC U0107 sets if the TAC module ignition feed circuit is shorted to a B+ supply circuit. The TAC module stays powered-up when the ignition switch is turned OFF. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the TAC module is powered-up before the PCM. DTC U0107 sets because no communication is detected by the TAC module from the PCM. Inspect related circuits for being shorted to a B+ supply circuit.

   ?  Inspect the TAC module power and ground circuits and the TAC module/PCM serial data circuits for intermittent connections.

   ?  Inspect the TAC module connectors for signs of water intrusion. If water intrusion occurs, multiple DTCs may set without any circuit or component conditions found during diagnostic testing.

   ?  When the TAC module detects a problem within the TAC system, more than one TAC system related DTC may set. This is due to the many redundant tests run continuously on this system. Locating and repairing an individual condition may correct more than one DTC. Remember this if you review the stored information in Capture Info.
 
Disregard my previous post. I failed to read that you're not getting any spark. You may be looking at a bad coil pack, which I believe is controlled by your CPK.
 
After sitting again for 2 days it started right up. It hesitated for like a second but then ran pretty good for almost 10 minutes. This is the second time it stalled and then after waiting for 2 days it started right up on the first try. I went ahead and changed the oil. I'm going to change the fuel filter tomorrow just because it can't hurt, but I'm still not convinced it's causing an issue. The fuel pump is rather audible when I'm underneath the car by the fuel tank. Is this normal? After I change fuel pump i'll add some fresh gas and see how long she'll run now before stalling.
 
Perfectly normal to hear the fuel pump make almost a whining noise after turning the ignition. I've had countless arguments with my wife when she goes to start her commander. She'll throw the key in the ignition and immediately start it without giving the pump enough time to properly prime in addition to driving off almost immediately without giving the jeep enough time to warm up or at the very least wait until the rpm's drop. Anywho, keep us posted after you change the pump out to see if that fixes the problem.
 
levistep said:
After sitting again for 2 days it started right up. It hesitated for like a second but then ran pretty good for almost 10 minutes. This is the second time it stalled and then after waiting for 2 days it started right up on the first try. I went ahead and changed the oil. I'm going to change the fuel filter tomorrow just because it can't hurt, but I'm still not convinced it's causing an issue. The fuel pump is rather audible when I'm underneath the car by the fuel tank. Is this normal? After I change fuel pump i'll add some fresh gas and see how long she'll run now before stalling.
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Guess I'm not going to change this fuel filter as it is in the fuel tank. Several sources seem to think there is an inline fuel filter, but I don't think the '05 has one. I think I'm going to run it again until it stalls on me and figure out to go from there. The fuel pump assembly is rather expensive. Has anyone had luck just replacing the certain components or do you go ahead and replace the whole assembly? I've changed 2 fuel pumps before and did one piecemeal and replaced the whole assembly on the other and they were both good to go afterwards.
 
Crankshaft Position sensor...

I had this same issue on a mazda millenia, car would run fine for several minutes before shutting down and refusing to start back up.

For a few minutes after starting you vehicle runs entirely on programmed routine... It's not until the car warms up that the ecm starts reading the sensors and actively running the motor.

Don't know how much that sensor costs but it appears to be working intermittently.

fuel pumps tend to just die, and a single coil wouldn't keep the truck from running.

Try replacing the sensor. :D
 
zalaj said:
Crankshaft Position sensor...

I had this same issue on a mazda millenia, car would run fine for several minutes before shutting down and refusing to start back up.

For a few minutes after starting you vehicle runs entirely on programmed routine... It's not until the car warms up that the ecm starts reading the sensors and actively running the motor.

Don't know how much that sensor costs but it appears to be working intermittently.

fuel pumps tend to just die, and a single coil wouldn't keep the truck from running.

Try replacing the sensor. :D
Click to expand...
I'm going to hook up fuel gauge and watch the pressure for 5-10 mins and if it seems normal i'm going to order the crank sensor and replace it. What you said makes a lot of sense.
 
During the warm up cycles it bypass the sensors reading, when it's warm it checks the sensors.

Where area do you live.
 
Right now I'm thinking the Crank sensor also let us know what happens.
 
MS03 2500 said:
Right now I'm thinking the Crank sensor also let us know what happens.
Click to expand...

Agreed. A bad CPK would explain the non sparking issue. When I changed mine out I want to say it was like $30 at autozone, and not too difficult other than having to remove the starter to get to it.
 
I still can't figure out why no code for it.
 
My fuel pump acted the same way, had fuel pressure when checked and would then loose pressure and engine would die. Was sure it was the crank sensor. No error codes. Happened right after I filled the tank. Good luck.
 
MS03 2500 said:
I still can't figure out why no code for it.
Click to expand...

That's why I'm still not convinced it wouldn't be a coil pack. One way you could tell is if it happens again where it won't crank over, is by taking the coil pack out and sticking it in the freezer for about 30 minutes or more then trying it again. If it starts right up then you know it's your coil pack. May be why you're able to fire it right up after it has been sitting cold for a day or two. I place my money on the coil pack.
 
Also, before you go freezin coil packs make sure you're not getting a spark by pulling each wire off of your spark plugs hold it close to some metal and confirm you're not getting a spark while someone else tries to crank her.
 
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