• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

2012 Single 10" Box and Amp Rack

merlin696

Full Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
34
So I have searched through the forums and have not found really what I am looking for. I am looking for a box that will go under the rear seat that will hold a 10" sub on one side and then have a nice recessed area for the amp on the other. I have seen a couple options and thought about getting a 2 speaker box and just only using one side and putting the amp inside the other.
Here is the problem, I have about 80 bucks to spend on the box and the key is I don't want to build it. I can do the full install myself but lets face it the box I want to look professional and if I do it, well it wont. I looked on eBay and alike and I think I found a couple options but I don't want to lose any functionality of the midgate. Does anyone have any links to buy a box or recommend one?
 
So I ended up getting a Q-POWER box from ebay, I was assured by the guy selling it that it would work and the midgate would function like normal, I am a little skeptical but figured I would give it a shot.
qgmcavalanche10__1.jpg
 
@merlin696...let me know if it fit...I just bought an 2011 Avalanche...traded in my 96 Tahoe which I had 3 12" memphis subs in...I still have the subs...just trying to figure out my options before I sale them!
 
Once it arrives ill lay it in and take some pics and post them up for you.
 
coobreeeze said:
@merlin696...let me know if it fit...I just bought an 2011 Avalanche...traded in my 96 Tahoe which I had 3 12" memphis subs in...I still have the subs...just trying to figure out my options before I sale them!
you should sell those to me  >:D I miss my memphis 1k amp, its just sitting waiting for new subs to push  (y)
 
So the box came in and it fits like a glove, literaly but its going to be perfect. You do lose a little out of the midgate, it wont lay flat but enough for anything I would ever use it for

IMG_1376.jpg

IMG_1377.jpg

IMG_1378.jpg

IMG_1380.jpg

 
That looks really clean.  I had a few questions for you.  What sub did you end up going with and are both the sub and your amp firing down or did you install the amp first and cover it.  Just curious to see if you had any heating issues with your amp.
Thanks,
 
nice, do you happen to have a link to the exact box you bought on ebay?
and where are you mounting the amps now?
 
Wow long delay on post, so I ended up using a JL Low profile sub on one end and then on the other end I put the amp in the hole where the other sub would go, I have had no heat issues with the amp either. One major problem I found was you have to pull the carpet back and pull the padding out from underneath the box or the sub just sits on the carpet and you cant hear anything.
 
That looks exactly like the dual 10" downfire box I got from hifisoundconnection.


The sound from mine is really good without removal of carpet or padding.

The only problem with it was the small seat bottom doesn't "click" in the down position because the plastic seat pan/cover hits the box. Remove the cover and the seat clicks in as it should.




http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,136118.msg2040498.html#msg2040498

blu_fuz said:
Amp isn't fastened down as of right now, but here is the completed "hooked up" pictures. I have all my fine tuning done and this setup hits pretty good for the price from hifisoundconnection. I'm curious to know how good the up-fire box sounds compared to the down-fire setup I have. I liked the idea of having my speakers protected with the down-fire box if I ever decide to just flip up the rear seat, I can still pile stuff on this box and not worry about the speakers getting damaged.

I can hear the power "thump" when the amp signal is turned on, but with just the sub setup it really isn't that bad to have to add the resistors. I also don't have any humming or feedback in the system. If you are doing an amp setup for the door speakers and upgrading those, you might want to add the resistor Dave mentioned because it might be more noticable.

I also show that I had to remove the bottom trim pan of the passenger rear seat because it hit the box and the seat wouldn't latch down. I can clearly see where it hits the box and the marks on the pan. I will  probably trim the box eventually to re-install my seat trim but I'm not worried about it for now.


DSC_0095_zps632008fc.jpg

DSC_0094_zps09164dc3.jpg

DSC_0096_zps99c06725.jpg

DSC_0098_zps6e7b7d2b.jpg

DSC_0099_zpsed2d344a.jpg

DSC_0101_zps4fb186b9.jpg
 
merlin696 said:
I put the amp in the hole where the other sub would go, I have had no heat issues with the amp either.


How did you seal up the chamber for the 2nd speaker you aren't using?

That box is designed to be sealed with the proper amount of airspace for the 2 subs. If you are missing a sub and have the 10" hole open and don't have the 2 woofer sections closed off from eachother, you will loose TONS of sound/bass. That's probably why you thought you had to remove padding to make it sound better......


 
No you have to remove the padding because the riser on the bottom of the box sinks into the padding and the face of the sub sat on the carpet.

To fix the problem with the opening, I opened the book for the sub and found the optimal airspace needed for a sealed enclosure, then using basic math I was able to figure out where to put a shaped piece of MDF inside the box and then seal it up using screws and construction adhesive.

Removing the padding also fixes the latching issues.
 
Back
Top