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Author Topic: how to siphon gas from tank  (Read 5402 times)
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omahava
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« on: 06/22/12 07:53 AM »

Truck has been down a week.... I got some gas after tanker truck filled ground tanks.....multi-misfiring...Flashing service engine soon......I was able to get about 5 gallons after removing fuel filter(mounted 0n frame) but I've still got problems. Now I'm trying to siphon all gas out through gas filler neck no sucuess..... Help me! anybody got reasonable tips? Beating i know better and now paying the price!
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« Reply #1 on: 06/22/12 09:48 AM »

far as I know most newer vehicles have anti-siphon devices in the filler necks, only way to drain the tank is to disconnect the fuel lines @ the tank.
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« Reply #2 on: 06/22/12 01:26 PM »

I beg to differ on the anti siphon thingy, stick a hose in and suck, I had to do this to get about five gallons out, right after I filled up the dang fuel pump took a dive!

Didit
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« Reply #3 on: 06/22/12 01:43 PM »

I beg to differ on the anti siphon thingy, stick a hose in and suck, I had to do this to get about five gallons out, right after I filled up the dang fuel pump took a dive!

Didit

depends on the year, don't know the OP's year, but my 2010 has some type of spring/clamp in the filler and you cannot stuff a hose down the tube..

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« Reply #4 on: 06/22/12 03:39 PM »

Are you sure it is fuel?
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« Reply #5 on: 06/22/12 03:49 PM »

Here is how the General says do it.

Loosen the fuel fill cap in order to relieve the fuel tank vapor pressure.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Loosen the fuel fill hose clamp (6).
Remove the fuel fill hose from the fuel tank.
Insert the hose from the pump devise into the fuel tank.
Using a hand or air operated pump device, drain as much fuel from the tank as possible.
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« Reply #6 on: 06/22/12 04:29 PM »

I bought a siphon pump years ago with the idea that I would siphen gas from my 2002 Avalanche to use in the mower and other power tools instead of running to the gas station everytime I needed gas for them. I never had any success getting gas out of the tank with it.
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« Reply #7 on: 06/22/12 06:42 PM »

If you're desperate you could always remove the fuel filter, clamp a small hose onto the fuel line and put the line into a gas can, turn the ignition on, then let the pump run until the tank is empty.
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« Reply #8 on: 06/22/12 07:01 PM »

The pump is set to run a few seconds not enough to pump 5 gallons. It does this to prime the injectors. That's why when they go out you have the hard starting issues
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« Reply #9 on: 06/22/12 08:53 PM »

I didn't have the problem until  I fill tank.....'02 model ...I immediately had errors read =p0300 and p0100.......I cleaned MAP sensor,Pulled a plug,8mo.s old ...and they look good.......Ava 's hissing like a steam engine....A mechanic told me how attach hose before fuel filter to catch gas and I must have  drawn 5 gallons  in 4 days and never seen any difference ,so I added new filter  and drove it...And problem still exist...Mechanic also said is was H20 .Efforts to siphon gas so far unsuccessful...I bought a  hand pump and even added copper tubing to make tubing more firmer but still never touched gas?I did butcher a flap  in filler neck...I just hope bad gas is the only problem..Thanks for your responses......I'll try How the  General says: Thanks mso3 2500......... chevy
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« Reply #10 on: 06/23/12 05:36 AM »

The pump is set to run a few seconds not enough to pump 5 gallons. It does this to prime the injectors. That's why when they go out you have the hard starting issues

It runs until it pressurizes the fuel system and rail to proper pressure, then shuts off. With an open fuel system it won't build any pressure and won't shut off.
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« Reply #11 on: 06/23/12 06:22 AM »

But the fuel filter would have caught the crap....

IT may all be coincidence...
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« Reply #12 on: 06/23/12 08:29 AM »

It runs until it pressurizes the fuel system and rail to proper pressure, then shuts off. With an open fuel system it won't build any pressure and won't shut off.

According to the general
This is 4 the 2002s


Starting Mode

With the ignition switch in the ON position, before engaging the starter, the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds allowing the fuel pump to build up pressure. The PCM first tests speed density, then switches to the mass airflow (MAF) sensor. The PCM also uses the engine coolant temperature (ECT), the throttle position (TP), and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensors to determine the proper air/fuel ratio for starting. The PCM controls the amount of fuel delivered in the starting mode by changing the pulse width of the injectors. This is done by pulsing the injectors for very short times.
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« Reply #13 on: 06/23/12 04:53 PM »

But the fuel filter would have caught the crap....

IT may all be coincidence...

Not water. Gets stirred up from the bottom of neglected underground tanks during refill. Had this happen to me 30+ years ago. A lesson well learned. Won't buy fuel from strange stations if there's a tanker on the lot.
« Last Edit: 06/23/12 04:58 PM by ltxi » Logged

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« Reply #14 on: 06/24/12 09:34 AM »

Not water. Gets stirred up from the bottom of neglected underground tanks during refill. Had this happen to me 30+ years ago. A lesson well learned. Won't buy fuel from strange stations if there's a tanker on the lot.

But this should not be a problem anymore since the gas has 10-15% ethanol which works as dry gas and removes water from the tanks.
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« Reply #15 on: 06/24/12 10:07 AM »

Not water. Gets stirred up from the bottom of neglected underground tanks during refill. Had this happen to me 30+ years ago. A lesson well learned. Won't buy fuel from strange stations if there's a tanker on the lot.

YES WATER! about 30 years ago states started regulations on underground tanks. Most if not all tanks have been replaced and newer pumps should filter sediments but gasoline floats on water,...  water is the most likely contaminant to get "stirred up" when a tanker truck is present and shouldn't be a problem in most modern filling stations.

Wazbro - I forgot about ethanol, it must weigh the same as gasoline.

Use a smaller tube to siphon with ? I haven't siphoned gas in over 30 years  Cheesy  
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« Reply #16 on: 06/24/12 10:17 AM »

Most vehicles now have a device in the filler neck that looks like a plastic baseball or wiffle ball without the holes.
The intent was to keep fuel from spilling out the filler neck when making a hard turn with a full tank, or on older cars, out the back if the filler neck was behind the license plate.
It also acts to help shut off the fuel pumps when the tank is full. The gas in the filler tube lifts the ball up and causes a much smaller mount to back up to the neck and click off the pump.
A side benefit was that the ball prevented a siphon tube from being inserted very far into the tank, if at all.
My old 88 Dodge Dakota had this when I had to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, and so did my 91 S-10.
I'm not sure if GM still employs this method, but anyone who has dropped a tank to replace a fuel pump should be able to answer that.
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« Reply #17 on: 06/24/12 12:06 PM »

jmuller62 - many people still believe it's an anti-siphoning device. You are correct anti-siphon is a side benefit. No-lead started right about the same time the gas price crunch happened 30 some years ago and stealing gas (siphoning) was rampant. The automakers didn't complicate the old simple ball and tube design until they were forced to.
 
The real reason for filler tube and evaporation tube designs is they have to meet current EPA pollution standards.
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« Reply #18 on: 06/24/12 04:03 PM »

But this should not be a problem anymore since the gas has 10-15% ethanol which works as dry gas and removes water from the tanks.

Alcohol only holds water in suspension/solution. It doesn't make it disappear. The intent of Dri-Gas was to was to keep water as condensation from building up in gas tanks mostly during the winter months. It left via the combustion chamber in those minimal amounts. Dump water as a major contaminate into your fuel system and you're lucky if you can run at all.
 
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« Reply #19 on: 06/26/12 07:15 PM »

I didn't pull anymore fuel.......Damage done intially and even good fuel wouldn't help my situatuion.....It would run but hiss like blown head gasket and I couldn't pull a grade......So I finally took it to diagnostic center so I wouldn't cause any more collaretall damage ......I'm shocked and appalled at cost! and really enjoying the comfort of my uncomputerized vehicles
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« Reply #20 on: 07/03/12 02:37 PM »

So what was the outcome of your issue? I had my intake come apart on my and caused the same kind of symptoms. My truck would not hold a constant idle and had no power when accelerating. I forgot to tighten everything up after cleaning my filter.
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« Reply #21 on: 07/03/12 03:46 PM »

Alcohol only holds water in suspension/solution. It doesn't make it disappear. The intent of Dri-Gas was to was to keep water as condensation from building up in gas tanks mostly during the winter months. It left via the combustion chamber in those minimal amounts. Dump water as a major contaminate into your fuel system and you're lucky if you can run at all.
 

That was my point, that it keeps the water in the gas stations tank in suspension/solution so there should not be enough water in there tanks to dump water as a major contaminate into your fuel system.
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« Reply #22 on: 07/03/12 06:30 PM »

Key is major contaminant. Couple of cans of Dri-Gas ain't gonna help in that case.
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« Reply #23 on: 07/04/12 07:02 AM »

I used some of that "bad" gas in my lawnmower with no problem..... the hissing sound Shocked was made by a clogged catalytic converter  ???Now up and running good =New y-pipe including2 cats 4 sensors...and header  gasket I need a hug
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« Reply #24 on: 07/04/12 09:56 AM »

Glad you got it all worked out.
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