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Author Topic: This is a Hint for all you D.I.Y ers in the stereo dept  (Read 14713 times)
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beergut
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« Reply #25 on: 12/27/09 05:55 AM »

Hi guys- I don't know if this has already been mentioned on here but-
I just went through hell installing an after market double din nav / dvd unit in my 04 av- I wanted to share the wire harness part #'s with anyone else going through the same issue splicing an aftermarket harness to the factory harness.

The correct part number for all 2000+ GM vehicles with on-star or bose systems that require a Class II Data Bus harness is NC-GM39B

The correct part number for all 2000+ GM vehicles without on-star or bose systems that still require a Class II Data Bus harness is NC-GM39C

From what I'm told- you'll need the class II data bus for any vehicle that chimes through the speaker system rather then the radio.

If this is a redundant post then feel free to delete it.






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Armageddon
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« Reply #26 on: 10/21/10 03:00 PM »

Hell, you can use your cell phone battery to do this also, any battery will do. It's very helpful to do this especially with new systems that have started using small centralized amps to run the speakers like the Bose setups in our trucks. U can run this test behind the dash to check if they're actually hooked directly to the speakers.
Also a good way to check if the wires inside your sub box are still hooked up.

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redheadedrod
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« Reply #27 on: 07/23/13 12:25 PM »

One note though... Be careful when using a DC battery on a source that is intended to be AC. Do not hold the battery to the speaker for a long period of time. The speaker can over heat and become a dead speaker. The smaller the voltage the less chance of burning up the speaker thus the reason for using an AA/AAA instead of a 9 volt. You are also less likely to burn up a speaker with an AA/AAA battery than a C/D because they also provide less current.

Those that I have seen use this method only do so for long enough to identify the speaker direction. I was able to burn up an OEM 6 ohm speaker in under a minute holding a 9volt battery to it...   

Another option is to use a wide frequency noise injector. I have one that I bought years ago that comes with alligator clamps and RCA plugs so you have a choice which way you want to go. Because it provides a clean low power AC signal it won't damage any speaker no matter how long you hold it in place. This is used to identify which speaker is hooked to which wire or to verify its location. It is hard to do that with a battery without a second person or damaging your speaker. Because it provides many different frequencies it should work with any speaker. You can also use it to determine if a pair of speakers are wired the same way because if you drive both speakers with it the sound should be louder if they are wired the same and quieter if they are wired opposite. It does not verify if they are RIGHT or not, just that they are the same.

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flyn_brian
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« Reply #28 on: 08/24/14 04:10 AM »

Hi guys- I don't know if this has already been mentioned on here but-
I just went through hell installing an after market double din nav / dvd unit in my 04 av- I wanted to share the wire harness part #'s with anyone else going through the same issue splicing an aftermarket harness to the factory harness.

The correct part number for all 2000+ GM vehicles with on-star or bose systems that require a Class II Data Bus harness is NC-GM39B

The correct part number for all 2000+ GM vehicles without on-star or bose systems that still require a Class II Data Bus harness is NC-GM39C

From what I'm told- you'll need the class II data bus for any vehicle that chimes through the speaker system rather then the radio.

If this is a redundant post then feel free to delete it.







So where is the most cost effective place to buy this adapter. I do a google search and its like they want me to refinance my house to install an aftermarket stereo
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Troublemaker
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« Reply #29 on: 08/24/14 08:07 AM »

I went with Crutchfield to order mine.  They will double-check to make sure the part you want/need will work with your vehicle.  Their prices for add-ons (install kits, adapters, etc...) are around the same as any other place, but a little higher than normal for the actual stereos.
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