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Author Topic: throttle body  (Read 6544 times)
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RiverCityAV
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« on: 10/30/09 09:11 AM »

Check engine light on - code indicates problem with throttle body. Truck is an 07 with just shy of 100k miles. Dealer recommends cleaning with a flush at $150. This may or may not fix issue. Next step would be replacing throttle body. Any similar experiences?  Also does anyone have the part # for the throttle body?  I'd like to either clean it or replace it myself. Other than the light the Av is running fine. Thanks.
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« Reply #1 on: 10/30/09 09:27 AM »

I would certainly try cleaning it myself before I paid someone else $150 to do it. While you are at it, I would go ahead and clean the MAF and change the air filter if it has not been changed recently. While you are at the autoparts store, get them to read the code for you. They can enter the code into their system to see what the common cures for the code are.

Can't help you out with the P/N for the throttle body.
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RiverCityAV
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« Reply #2 on: 10/30/09 10:13 AM »

Also, code is a P0121 - which in the description indicates the TPS. Annoys me a little because the dealership said the sensor could not be replaced and the entire throttle body would have to be changed. It's my understanding that the TPS can be replaced.
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jtdchevy
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« Reply #3 on: 10/30/09 10:17 AM »

I would have them check the intake manifold gasket. Mine went at about 60000 miles. It had been installed wrong at the factory causing it to crack.
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« Reply #4 on: 10/31/09 07:58 AM »

TPS is built into TBS... so yeah.. replace the whole thing..

remove connector... clean both sides... apply dielectric grease ,, reconnect and pray it fixes problem
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RiverCityAV
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« Reply #5 on: 11/09/09 07:51 PM »

So I cleaned the throttle body, and while I was at it figured I'd clean the MAF too. So good news - the check engine light is gone, but now the throttle response is weird.  Started fine, but as soon as I touched the pedal engine revved up but did not return to idle (stayed at about 2000 rpms).  Stepped on the pedal again and rpms went up further but did not come back down.  Put it in gear and rpms dropped (still higher than normal idle though)  I have no idea what's going on, any ideas?  banghead
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« Reply #6 on: 11/09/09 09:11 PM »

If no lights are on and it's put back together right with no leaks, drive it for about 20 miles. Sounds like it's trying to recalibrate
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RiverCityAV
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« Reply #7 on: 11/09/09 09:18 PM »

I'm 99% sure it's put together right (it was dark, i'll double check in the morning).  I did disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes and then drove for about 15 minutes.  Just a little scary stopping when the engine doesn't drop down when you take your foot off the gas.  I didn't think it would take that long to recalibrate.  Hopefully it'll fix itself  Cheesy  Sometimes I miss having a vehicle with no computers.
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« Reply #8 on: 11/09/09 09:26 PM »

Naw just drive it, sorry the days of no computer controlled cars is long over. Big laughter with tears
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LA2BAY
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« Reply #9 on: 01/14/10 02:21 PM »

I got the same code here...P0121.  I tried calling around everywhere looking for the "throttle pedal position sensor" for my 07 but nobody has it.  Finally I called the dealer and they told me that the part I needed was the "Throttle actuator" Huh  Btw that part costs 266.00!  The truck runs perfect except for the light.  Anybody else have experience with this code??
 Thread hijacked!  Cheesy
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Galahad1066
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« Reply #10 on: 09/13/10 12:26 AM »

I also have the P0121 code and got myself a 4 dollar can of cleaner.  Was watching a video on YouTube on how to clean the throttle body so now I'll soon be an expert too...lol.
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« Reply #11 on: 01/30/14 10:07 AM »

I recently bought an '08 Avalanche LTZ with about 64,000 miles on it. I love the truck and wish I could afford a brand new one but maybe one day! 

Anyway, about a week after I bought it I took a road trip from Virginia to New Hampshire--probably put around 1500 miles on it.  It ran great, got great gas mileage (compared to my Honda Ridgeline) and fit our family of four well. 

This past Monday I began getting error messages:Stabilitrak Disabled, Traction Control Disabled, Reduced Engine Power and then the truck shut off.  This happened two times while on side roads and one time on the interstate (not fun).  I researched the problem on line and on this forum (thanks for the good advice).  I decided I would replace the throttle body myself at a cost of around $200.00 until I found the number for General Motors (1-800-630-2438) and called to see if there were any recalls, etc.  I was thrilled to learn that a "special coverage" had been added to the throttle body because of this issue.  GM will not issue a recall and will not replace it until you have the symptoms mentioned above which seems like a liability to me since they are aware of the problem.  Anyway, I was glad to save myself a few hundred dollars and a few hours of my time. 

Not sure what years this special coverage applies to but I was told I had 10 years from the year of the truck or up to 120,000 miles.  Hope this information will be helpful to another Avalanche driver who may have the same experience! 


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BlackandChrome
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« Reply #12 on: 02/11/14 05:33 PM »

Milt: Thanks for that number.

I have an 07 with about 68K miles.  My truck did the same exact thing today (Stabilitrak Disabled, Traction Control Disabled, Reduced Engine Power).
I hooked up the diablo tuner and got P0121, P2119, and P2135 codes.  I reset them and it drove pretty normal for the 15 and 10 minute drives after that.

I called that number for General Motors.  They didn't have anything about this when I gave my VIN.  Did they give you a code?

I did find that there is "special coverage" on the chrome interior handles that are flaking off.  The code they gave me was 09239.  The person on the phone emailed the nearest dealer to have them take care of it.  Pretty sweet.

She did mention that the dealer may be able to take care of the other codes under the bumper to bumper or emissions warranty.  They'll need to diagnose it.
I really don't need a $100 diagnostics charge from them though.    I've been meaning to clean the Volant filter that came with my truck.  I've been also meaning to Seafom it. From some of the other research I've been doing, I'll need to clean the throttle body and put dielectic grease on the connection. 
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Jose_07Av
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« Reply #13 on: 02/12/14 12:02 PM »

So I cleaned the throttle body, and while I was at it figured I'd clean the MAF too. So good news - the check engine light is gone, but now the throttle response is weird.  Started fine, but as soon as I touched the pedal engine revved up but did not return to idle (stayed at about 2000 rpms).  Stepped on the pedal again and rpms went up further but did not come back down.  Put it in gear and rpms dropped (still higher than normal idle though)  I have no idea what's going on, any ideas?  banghead

I had this problem with my truck and all I did was clean the intake with a throttle body cleaner make sure you get in there pretty good and get all the gunk out of there, I do remember my truck idling high after I did this but it went away after a few days of driving. 

If that doesn't fix the problem then you probably have a bad TPS sensor, the harness is rubbing and causing it to malfuntion, bad connection at the TPS, water or corrosion in connector or sensor, and not to common bad PCM.

A way to check it is if you have a digital meter or a scan tool, you can monitor the TPS sensor voltage when they are at idle or WOT(Wide open throttle) and they should be at idle= .5volts;full throttle-4.5 volts
You can also check for 5 volt reference at the connector. If it checks ok, check the ground circuit for opens or shorts. If the signal circuit is 12v it has shorted out, trace circuit for short to voltage and repair, it could be a connector rubbing on something that has shorted out. Look for water or corrosion in the connector and clean it and apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

If everything checks ok , then you definitely have a bad TPS sensor which requires the entire Throttle body to be changed. I would buy it and install it myself it's not that difficult to swap out.

or you could just take it in to the shop and pay to get it fixed, but just to clean the throttle body is $140-160, I can't imagine what they charge for troubleshooting and fixing the problem would come out to be probably $400-$600
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Jose Lara
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« Reply #14 on: 02/21/14 07:26 AM »

I recently bought an '08 Avalanche LTZ with about 64,000 miles on it. I love the truck and wish I could afford a brand new one but maybe one day! 

Anyway, about a week after I bought it I took a road trip from Virginia to New Hampshire--probably put around 1500 miles on it.  It ran great, got great gas mileage (compared to my Honda Ridgeline) and fit our family of four well. 

This past Monday I began getting error messages:Stabilitrak Disabled, Traction Control Disabled, Reduced Engine Power and then the truck shut off.  This happened two times while on side roads and one time on the interstate (not fun).  I researched the problem on line and on this forum (thanks for the good advice).  I decided I would replace the throttle body myself at a cost of around $200.00 until I found the number for General Motors (1-800-630-2438) and called to see if there were any recalls, etc.  I was thrilled to learn that a "special coverage" had been added to the throttle body because of this issue.  GM will not issue a recall and will not replace it until you have the symptoms mentioned above which seems like a liability to me since they are aware of the problem.  Anyway, I was glad to save myself a few hundred dollars and a few hours of my time. 

Not sure what years this special coverage applies to but I was told I had 10 years from the year of the truck or up to 120,000 miles.  Hope this information will be helpful to another Avalanche driver who may have the same experience! 




I just had my throttle position sensor replaced (07, 86k) when out of the blue I lost power with the same messages.  Since replacing ($400 at dealer) I have had no issues.
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BlackandChrome
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« Reply #15 on: 02/23/14 07:46 PM »

I had this problem with my truck and all I did was clean the intake with a throttle body cleaner make sure you get in there pretty good and get all the gunk out of there, I do remember my truck idling high after I did this but it went away after a few days of driving. 

If that doesn't fix the problem then you probably have a bad TPS sensor, the harness is rubbing and causing it to malfuntion, bad connection at the TPS, water or corrosion in connector or sensor, and not to common bad PCM.

A way to check it is if you have a digital meter or a scan tool, you can monitor the TPS sensor voltage when they are at idle or WOT(Wide open throttle) and they should be at idle= .5volts;full throttle-4.5 volts
You can also check for 5 volt reference at the connector. If it checks ok, check the ground circuit for opens or shorts. If the signal circuit is 12v it has shorted out, trace circuit for short to voltage and repair, it could be a connector rubbing on something that has shorted out. Look for water or corrosion in the connector and clean it and apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

If everything checks ok , then you definitely have a bad TPS sensor which requires the entire Throttle body to be changed. I would buy it and install it myself it's not that difficult to swap out.

or you could just take it in to the shop and pay to get it fixed, but just to clean the throttle body is $140-160, I can't imagine what they charge for troubleshooting and fixing the problem would come out to be probably $400-$600

I cleaned my throttle body after watching these videos:
part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IrL0VtxcC4
part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T56CZ4hPdrk

I have a Volant air kit, so it took a whole 10 minutes to do.  I cleaned it as much as possible, but there is a ring I couldn't get to.  I listened to the warning about not pushing the butterfly too much.  It wasn't that caked up with soot. 

It was fine for a few days (driving 20-30 miles each day if that).  I ended up getting the Stabilitrack Disable/Traction Control Disabled/Reduced Engine Power issue one time since then.  I cleared the codes with my programmer and it hasn't happened since.  I have noticed that the idle and revs are a bit odd and the truck feel sluggish. 

I don't have a scan tool to test the throttle body.  I have a cheap multimeter, but I don't know how to use it. 


I definitely don't want to spend the $400+ at the dealer to replace it.  I don't want to spend $100 at the mechanic to diagnose, when I can get the Throttle Body itself for $150 and change it in 10 min.

Is it safe to say it's the throttle body, or can it be  stupid cable?
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« Reply #16 on: 02/23/14 09:34 PM »

I had the same issue a few months back.. Iended up getting a new throttle body position sensor and some carb cleaner.. Took it all apart there's 4 bolts holding the throttle body on.. I used carb cleaner and a microfiber cloth you'd be amazed by the amount of gunk in there! The tbps is held on by 6 or 8 clips use a standard screw driver to pop them off.. As far as it running different drive the truck for 20-50 miles and the computer relearned itself  Thumbs up!

Believe the tbps was 40-50$.. Carb cleaner 7$ and about 30 mins of your time to do the project.. I have a Haynes manual for the truck.. If you don't there's a 7 min long video of how to clean/remove the throttle body in a 2007+ chevy truck (Tahoe,suburban silverado, avalanche etc.) just search it in google
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